Popular Woodworking 2003-10 № 136, страница 44
After gluing the halves together, I first drilled two /b" holes to define the foot pad and then connected the dots.The rest was simple band saw work. With the post cut to shape, the first step in forming the tenon is to define the shoulder on all four sides. The miter gauge (hidden behind the work) on my saw works well, while the rip fence allows you to set the shoulder location. I use a high-sided shop-made tenoning jig to cut the cheeks on the tenon.You could also nibble away the waste a la the foot mortise if you don't have, or want to build, a tenoning jig. The top of the post is notched 4" deep, so the table saw won't cut it (pun intended).The band saw will and I use staggered cuts to remove much of the wood, then chisel out the excess. Notice the notch isn't centered on the post, but offset by V4" to one side. ward the mortise at the top of the leg. Connect the two marks and you have the slope for the top of each foot. Head to the band saw and cut the slopes. To finish the feet, sand the surfaces and round all the edges with a 3/l6" radius bit in your router. Going Vertical The next step is the 27/8" x 27/8" posts. As with the feet, there's a good chance you'll need to glue up thinner pieces to form the posts. Once assembled and milled to the size given in the cutting list, it's time to form the tenons to match the mortises in the feet. Start cutting the tenons by first defining the shoulder on the table saw with the posts flat on the saw's table. Then reset the table saw and run the posts upright to form the cheeks. Cut two cheeks, then adjust the fence and cut the other two. Make the tenons slightly oversize and then trim them to achieve a snug fit. At the tops of the posts, cut out a notch the width of the post to hold the cross braces. Lay out this notch using the photos above to locate them. Note that the notches aren't centered in the posts - rather, they're offset by 1/4" to one side. An easy method to remove the 4" of waste is to hog the majority out with a band saw, then chisel away the remaining waste. To finish off the posts, use a chamfer bit in your router to make decorative cuts on each edge, stopping 7/8" from the joinery at each end. Visible Means of Support The part of the leg that actually supports the top is the cross brace. Mill the stock for the cross braces, then use the table saw to nibble away the shallow notches (as you did on the feet halves) on the two opposing sides of each brace. These notches will fit into the 4"-deep notches at the tops of the leg posts, so test the fit to make sure it's snug, but not too tight. While the cross braces are mostly hidden under the table-top, they can be seen at times and therefore there's no sense leaving them square and chunky. Use the pattern (at right) to trace SHAKER TRESTLE TABLE
*Finished size is 36" long. *Finished size is 36" long. 44 Popular Woodworking October 2003 |
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