Popular Woodworking 2004-11 № 144, страница 59

TIPS & TRICKS

SAFETY TIP:

One We Hope You Know

There is absolutely no reason for you to ever make a cut (crosscut or rip cut) on your table saw without some type of guiding mechanism. Whether that's a rip fence, miter gauge or miter sled, never make a cut on the table saw freehand. You will most certainly get hurt.

PRO TIP:

Crosscut Both Ends to Square

Cutting a board to length seems simple enough, but almost as important as getting the board the right length is making sure the ends are square to the sides. Don't worry, it's simple. First make sure your fence or miter gauge is cutting square to the blade. Before cutting the board to final length, trim V2" off one end of the board, then flip it end-for-end and measure to make your final cut on the uncut end.

SAFETY TIP:

No Rip Fence For Crosscutting

Never use the rip fence as a stop for cross-cutting. The cut-off pieces will be pinched between the blade and the fence, and the saw will fling them back at you. Instead, use a stop block - sometimes called a "stand-off block" - mounted to the rip fence behind the blade location to gauge your length and safely make the cut.

Ripping Lumber

1 Ripping a piece of solid lumber is simpler than ripping plywood, but there is more potential for danger because the stress in a solid wood board can pinch the blade when it's ripped. Roller stands are recommended (you can't see mine in the

photos) and _

should be

positioned to support both pieces coming off the saw. To start the cut, you shou Id be positioned at the rear corner of the board, supporting the back end with your right hand. Your left hand (at the center of the board) provides pressure against the fence, keeping it flush to the fence. The arrows indicate the direction I'm applying pressure.

2 Walk the board slowly into the blade, keeping the edge flush along the length of the fence. When your left hand reaches the edge of the saw, allow it to slide backward along the length of the board,

maintaining pressure against the fence. Maintain this support until the back end of the board reaches the edge of the saw table.

3 Grab your push stick and place it on the back edge of the piece between the blade and fence. Apply pressure forward and slightly toward the fence with the push stick as you continue the cut. Your left hand should only be used to apply minimal guiding pressure on the fall-off piece until the piece is separated, then move your left hand out of the way. Once the keeper board is clear of the blade and guard, turn your attention to the fall-off piece and push it safely forward, again using the push stick.

Crosscutting Lumber

1 When crosscutting a board, the substantially thinner width of the piece (and not enough width to ride adequately against the fence) requires us to use a miter gauge rather than the fence. Note the gauge in our photos is not standard equipment. We recommend either adding a backing board at least 24" long to your stock miter gauge or purchasing an after-market gauge.

Start by checking to make sure your miter gauge is square to the blade. Then align your cut and support the board against the gauge with one hand on the gauge and the other stretching across the piece to hold it tightly against the gauge. If your piece is too wide to reach across, it's smart to clamp the piece against the gauge during the cut.

2 Guide the gauge and board into and past the

push the board away from the blade, sliding it along the gauge. Then turn the saw off. Once the blade stops spinning, pull the fall-off piece away from the blade.

Popular Woodworking