Popular Woodworking 2005-02 № 146, страница 45

The trick to frame-and-panel construction are rail-and-stile router (or shaper) bits (see below for how to use them). Shown here is a test-fit door, with the cutter for the stile tenon in the router table.

ble (see "Using Stile & Rail Bits" below). If you're already familiar with rail-and-stile bits, just keep reading and we'll move on to the dresser construction.

As you prepare to lay out your pieces for the frames, note that because the interior is hidden I've called out maple and poplar pieces for the interior frames. Make sure the maple pieces end up at the front of the dresser. A single poplar stile at the front of the case will look pretty funny.

I raised the solid-wood end panels on my table saw, beveling the blade to 10° and setting the rip fence to leave a shoulder on the panel at the top of the blade and a thin-enough edge to fit into the grooves in the stiles and rails. Be sure to run a test piece first to check the panel's fit.

You'll find it easier to sand the panels before gluing up the frame-and-panel assemblies. Spend the time now while it's convenient to work up through #180-grit sandpaper on all the visible pieces. Avoid sanding the areas where rail-and-stile pieces will mate to form the j oints. This will j ust leave a sloppy-looking joint.

Also, when gluing up the frames, remember that no glue is required in the grooves for the panels. This defeats the purpose of a loose panel.

Dados, Grooves and Rabbets

To add stability and accuracy to the dresser carcase, each of the points where the panel assemblies join has a carefully sized dado or groove to accept the assembly.

All the "grooves" (whether

technically dados or grooves, depending on grain orientation) are ³/4"-wide x ^"-deep. Start by setting your dado set to the proper width using one of your actual

frame-and-panel assemblies to check the fit.

You want a snug fit, but if you have to hit it with a hammer, it's too tight. You also don't want the

USING STILE & RAIL BITS

To use stile-and-rail bits you should also have a router table and a router rated at 2hp that takes V2" router bit shanks. The bits themselves are sold in pairs, called a matched stile-and-rail set; then you'll have the option of using a panel-raising bit, or you could cut the beveled panels on your table saw.

There are a few rules to follow to ensure your frame-making goes well. First, make an accurate cutting list. Stiles, the vertical (and usually longer) pieces of the frame, are the length of the door or assembly. Rails need extra length to account for each end nesting, or coping, into the moulded profile of the stile, usually ³/8" or ⁷/i6" for each end. Extra width and length for the panel is needed because it fits in the groove of the frame. The amount is Vi6" less than the depth of the groove.

Set up the router table for the moulding profile and groove with the bit height to cut a Vi6"-deep fillet on the face. Then set the router table fence so it's in line with the ball bearing guide on the bit. For safety, set the fence opening as close to the bit as possible.

Make a test cut on some scrap material prepared to the same thickness as the good parts. Run them with firm pressure down and against the fence.

Next, trade the router bit for the rail- or

Source: Freud

cope-cutting bit. Before making a test cut, it's important to prepare a "cope block." This can be a simple 12" square of plywood. The cope block provides bearing surface against the fence and supports the rail while the end is passed across the router bit.

Height adjustment is critical and several attempts may be necessary to get it right - when faces of the stiles and rails align perfectly. As in

the previous setup, align the fence with the bearing on the bit. When running the rail ends with the cope block, direct pressure on the block (but not the rail) toward the fence. Hold the rail firmly to the front edge of the bock. Push the block from the back to make the cut.

If you haven't made this cut before, be aware that the bit tends to pull the rail into the cutter at the start and end of the cut, so keep the rail snug to the block.

When done, install the panel-raising bit. If using a variable-speed router, reduce the speed to 12,000 rpm to compensate for the large diameter of the bit. Set the fence and bit height according to the set instructions. Make test cuts before running your good panels.

If you're making beveled panels on the table saw, set the blade angle to the appropriate angle and set the blade height and fence. Run the panels against the fence carefully, running all four edges.

With all the parts ready, dry assemble to check the fit, then proceed to glue-up. But remember, the panel must be allowed to float in the frames. Just glue the stile-and-rail joints. Clamp the joints with enough pressure to close gaps, but don't over-clamp and distort the door. Also check the assembly for square and adjust as necessary. - Steve Shanesy

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Popular Woodworking February 2005