Popular Woodworking 2006-12 № 159, страница 30

angle, set the fence to make a VV-wide x ³/8"-deep groove for a plywood spline in each foot.

Now assemble the front feet for the chest. Add glue, insert the spline and use duct tape or clear packing tape to immobilize the feet as the glue sets.

The two remaining moulded feet pieces are for the rear feet assemblies. They are dovetailed to the rear foot blanks, which are flat and made from a secondary species, such as poplar.

Before attaching the foot assemblies to the base frame, sand the edge profile and finish shaping the face of the feet. Attach the feet to the frame using glue blocks. Place the blocks in the corner of the foot vertically, as well as along the return of each foot. For the vertical blocks I stack squares of stock so the grain is alternating.

Now attach the completed base to the case with #8 x 1V4" screws along the front edge and nails at the back. The screws hold the relationship of the two constant with movement forced to the rear, which the nails will allow.

Create the transition moulding on your router table and attach it to the case covering the j oint of the two assemblies. Use glue along the front piece and about 4" back along the side pieces, then finish the installation with brads.

I selected a classic ogee bit for the top edge and a V4" roundover to soften the bottom edge of the top. Sand the top to #180 grit and attach it to the case. Use nails into the rear top case rail and screws through the wooden clips, which are rabbeted, leaving a V4" tongue that slips into the slots cut in the case sides and front rail. Add the moulding below the top.

Building the Doors

For the lipped doors, I chose the right stile of the left-hand (or fixed) door to be the wide stile.

Set an auxiliary fence onto the saw with one piece of stock on each side of the blade and angle the fence until the point of the blade matches both end points of the cove of the foot just as it passes above and below the table top.

It may take a couple of passes to accomplish removing the waste from the top edge of the feet. Be sure not to cut the profile lines.

Carefully hold the stock both down to the table and tight to the fence as you complete the cut. It is important to use a push stick to complete this cut!

Mark the location for the center point of the drill area that will form the spur of the foot with a small drill bit. You will need three profiles facing in both directions.

Transfer the layout of the dovetails to the secondary blanks. Do not change or straighten the lines. If you adjust the lines you will not have a tight fit of the dovetails joint when complete.

This is the stile into which the opposite door will lip. Each stile receives mortises that are V4" x 1V2" x 1" in depth. They begin at V2" in from the end of the stile. Then cut matching tenons on the rails, being sure to leave material

for a ³/8" haunch that will fit into the door's groove.

Cut a ¹/4" groove for the panel in the center of each rail and stile. That groove needs to be ³/8" deep. To raise the panel, tilt the table saw's blade to 12° and set the fence

at exactly ³/16" away from the blade from where it tips below the table surface. This will create the appropriate fit of the panel into the groove of the door frame parts. To create a classic raised panel you need to set the saw blade so

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