Popular Woodworking 2007-02 № 160, страница 10

Tricks of the Trade

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Mortiser Fence Clamp Improves Your Grip

My hollow-chisel mortiser works great for quickly boring mortises, but I find that my hand gets tired holding workpieces in place against the table and fence while cutting multiple mortises. This jig, which quickly clamps on the mortiser table, takes care of the problem. It firmly clamps the workpiece against the mortiser fence, alleviating hand strain and ensuring accurate boring. The jig is nothing more than a toggle clamp screwed to a piece of ^"-thick Medium-density Fiberboard the same length as the mortiser's table. After placing the workpiece against the

mortiser fence, I back off the toggle clamp so that its pad is Vs" short of its full extension, then I place the pad against the workpiece and clamp the j ig to the mortiser table. This creates just the right amount of clamping pressure while allowing for easy clamp release.

When boring mortises, it's a simple matter to throw the clamp, bore the mortise, release the clamp, reposition and repeat. Because the clamp only costs a few bucks, the jig is a cheap investment in accuracy and muscle relief.

Serge Duclos Quebec, Canada

Wood Preparation For Painted Finishes

As with clear finishes, the adage "the finish is only as good as the surface it is put on" is appropriate to painted finishes also. When I apply an oil-based (alkyd) paint or a latex paint, I always apply a primer first. I have found that tinting the primer to match the topcoat is a good idea. That way, if the topcoat is chipped, at least the exposed primer won't be as noticeable.

I take this one step further and stain the wood before I prime. This is especially important if the paint is a darker color and the wood to be painted is a light-colored wood such as

pine, poplar or soft maple. I use a water-based aniline dye such as Lockwood's powdered stain or Transtint's liquid stain. I usually use a dark walnut color in a fairly concentrated mixture. I apply the color heavily and really let it soak in. After it dries, I lightly sand the raised grain. I then apply my primer coat of paint and finish coats.

Now if the painted finish is chipped or abraded, the exposed wood does not jump out at you like stark white wood does.

Craig Bentzley Chalfont, Pennsylvania continued on page 22

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Popular Woodworking February 2007