Popular Woodworking 2007-02 № 160, страница 8

Letters

continued from page 14

in hot temperatures. Also, a hot coffee cup will indent no matter how hard the shellac gets.

Beyond this, you need to remember that because shellac is an evaporative finish, it scratches more easily than varnish, for example, which is a reactive finish.

— Bob Flexner, contributing editor

Veneer is Useful, but has Limitations

I want to start experimenting with veneer. First, could you recommend some books or articles? I am especially concerned about being able to make the end grain and edge of the board look convincing. And, is the veneer thin enough and flexible enough to make it conform to basic shaped edges?

Obviously, I could face a piece of hard or soft maple with tiger maple veneer and then put the edge of the board through my shaper, but would that produce convincing results? Further, is that doable without chipping out and destroying the veneer? And finally, are veneered boards capable of enduring the rigor of hand-cut dovetailing? Am I con

fined to using veneered panels inside rails and stiles?

Bill Wiese Melbourne, Florida

One of the best sources for veneering information I've come across is online at joewood-worker.com/catalog — if you scroll down to the bottom of the page, there are a lot of articles under the heading "Learn More About Veneering." I also recently posted a short article on our blog (popularwoodworking.com/blog).

I'm afraid you won't have any luck trying to mold veneer over a shaped edge. The material is too brittle, and the radii are too tight. As long as you have a good bond between the veneer and the substrate, you should be able to apply the veneer and then machine the edge. My guess is that you would be able to dovetail also, with the same caution about a good glue bond. I've never tried it, but it seems like it should work. Try it and see on some scraps before committing to this on a large project. PW

— Robert W. Lang, senior editor

QUESTION? COMPLAINT? WRITE TO US

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