Popular Woodworking 2008-06 № 169, страница 26

keep the glue from squeezing out above the bracket where it would be difficult to remove, make a shallow table saw cut just below the top edge ofthe bracket on the back face. That cut acts as a reservoir for excess glue. Add a thinbead of glue to the bracket below the cut then position the brackets to the apron. Add a few spring clamps until the glue is set.

Shave to shape. The best way to shape the knee-return brackets is with a small handplane. Watch the grain direction and the results should be near finish-ready.

Adding the Candle Slides

While the glue sets, cut and fit the candle-slide supports. Fit the pieces to the base then mark the exact location ofthe slide opening. Cut a Vs" x V4" x 10" groove at each opening.

A straight bit and a router table are your best bet for this task. Align the layout marks with the router bit, set the fence and create the groove. Setting a stop for the length of cut allows easy removal ofthe support after the groove is cut. The supports are held in place with a small amount of glue where the bottom ofthe slide fits the dado in the end aprons.

Next, make the candle slides so they fit the opening. Mill the material, making sure to orient the grain across the opening. Then create the front piece foreach slide with all edges profiled with a V4¹' roundover router bit.

Turn for alignment. With the opening for the candle slides transferred to the support, locating the cutting position of the matching router bit is all that's needed to create the groove. Turn the carbide cutter perpendicular to the fence to set

Mill this profile on wide stock, then slice the fronts at the table saw. This eliminates working with small pieces. Run the four edges to create a Vie" shadow line on the profile (asyou would when profilingdrawerfronts), then rip the fronts off. A zero-clearance insert keeps the moulded piece from dropping into the saw.

Finish sand the candle-slide parts to #180 grit and prepare to attach the fronts to the slides. Align the fronts with a V4" above the slide and equal distance to each side. Again, a small amount of glue does the job. Add a thin bead of glue, position the fronts to the slides then use tape to hold the connection until the glue has dried. Use small brass screws as stops to keep the slides from being pulled from the base. Those stops are applied after finishing is complete.

Beginning the Tray Mouldings

In order to properly size the top, you'll need to build the first layer of tray moulding, which is the beaded frame. The overhang of the completed frame is V2" all around. Prepare the four pieces of stock then rout the edge profile with a ³/8" bead-forming router bit.

The beaded frame is joined at the corners with half-lapped joinery. Make the necessary cuts at the table saw and keep in mind the orientation ofthe profiled edge. It'seasy to remove the incorrect portion of the joint.

I found it best to create the bead then round thecornersat the joints after assembly versus

Saving the digits. Profile the edges of the candle-slide fronts on a larger piece of stock, then rip the individual pieces to size. At no time do my fingers get close to the blade.

No brads allowed. To keep from marring the fronts of the slides, use tape and a small bead of glue. The tape acts as a clamp until the glue sets.

12 ■ Popular Woodworking June 2008