Popular Woodworking 2008-06 № 169, страница 28
A top with movement. Wooden dips hold the floating top to the table base and allow for seasonal movement. This relieves any cross-grain
position. I take two pieces of stock and draw my cove profile on opposingends. Position the drawn profile toward the blade and maneuver the auxiliary fence until the infeed and out feed ofthe blade align with the layout marks. Once found, lock the position ofthe fence.
The above-right photo shows the setup at the table saw. I like my auxiliary fence on the outfeed side ofthe blade, and I've secured the stock in position with a magnetic fence to keep the moulding from moving.
Lower the blade then make successive cuts, each time raising the blade incrementally to produce a cove profile matching the desired design. Take the last pass very slowly in order to remove as many mill marks as possible, which will reduce the amount of sanding.
Finish sand the tray cove mouldings to #180 grit then use a table saw to split the stock in half, forming two identical strips per piece. Each piece is routed with a Vs" roundover bit on the bottom edge to reflect the edge treatment ofthe profile ofthe bead frame below. Finish sand any rough areas before fitting the moulding to the table.
Those mouldings are attached to the table with brads located so the top is free to move. The brads extend through the cove moulding and the bead frame into the aprons. Fit each piece of moulding in place, then temporarily attach it to the table with one 23-gauge pin at each end. When the task is complete, the mouldings and pins are easily removed.
Clean up any pencil lines. Add a thin bead of glue to the cove, position the mouldings to the table and attach them with brads - the square holes left from the brad gun mimic antique, square-head nails.
To secure the coved corners, peg each miter with a short length of Vs" dowel.
Race to the Finish
For the finish 1 elected to stain the piece with water-base aniline dye stain (a 50-50 mixture of golden amber maple and brown walnut), add a single coat of boiled linseed oil to highlight the stripes, then topcoat with a few layers of shellac.
Normally I would rub out the shellac to achieve a dull sheen. To save time and effort, I elected to spray a single coat of dull-rubbed-effect lacquer to achieve that sheen. Ifyou don't spray your finish, try wiping on a coat of satin polyurethane or wiping varnish.
Add the brass knobs and brass screw stops to the candle slides and you're ready to sit
For more information on this project and to watch a video that shows making the tray cove moulding on a table saw, go to: popularwoodworking.com/jun08
down for an enjoyable afternoon of tea - or coffee, if you just haven't been able to get over that entire taxation-without-represeniaiion mess. PW
Clen D. Huey is a senior editor of Popular Woodworking, a published author and the host ofthe Woodworker's Edge DVD series. Contact him al 513-531-2690x1293 or email@example.com.
Prep work saves patience. Half the battle in fitting the tray cove is determining where the cut lines are located. Lay out 45" lines that bisect the corners, then cut to those lines.
Make cove moulding. This is the setup used to create cove mouldings. With the fence above the blade, you're responsible for holding the stock tight to the fence. A featherboard helps with that task.
Ready to miter. The tray cove moulding is created as a single cove moulding then split exactly at the center to provide twice the length.
12 ■ Popular Woodworking June 2008