Popular Woodworking 2009-04 № 175, страница 8

Won't Wedged Tenons Split the Craftsman Bookcase Sides?

My question concerns the Craftsman bookcase in the August 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking (#170). I was taught that when you wedge a through-tenon, the wedge should be perpendicular to the grain of the mortised piece, regardless of the orien:ation of the mortise opening, to avoid splitting the mortised piece. But in the featured bookcase, the wedges run vertically, along the grain of the sides. Is there a special reason for this choice?

— Tom Ryan, via e-mail

I oriented the wedges that way simplyJor the sake of aesthetics. I'm of the opinion that it wouldbe nearly impossible to split the sides of the bookcase with small wedges such as those I used.

— Robert W. Lang, senior editor-

Safer Dado-stack Use for Tenons

1 enjoyed Megan Fitzpatrick's article on the Shaker stepback (February 2009, #174). I, too, use the dado-stack method that Megan discusses for creating tenons. However, 1 strongly urge one slight change in her methodology.

I also cut the tenon using a miter gauge and table saw fence, but I make the first cut without having the workpiece against the fence, then make subsequent cuts working the piece over gradually on each cut until it finally touches the lence. This minimizes the chance for kickback.

We all recall the admonition about not using the miter gauge and the fence at the same time. My method is the one exception to thai rule, because I cut away all the material that could cause kickback before I flush the piece with the fence. I learned the hard way about kickback using Megan's method when my 5-horsepower table saw shot a workpiece against the back wall of my shop.

— Bill Jordan, Andalusia, Alabama

Cross-grain Construction Query

I have often thought of making a box very much like the H. Gerstner&r Sons tool chest (featured in the April 2008 issue, #168), but I have some concerns about how to attach the top section of the sides and back. It appears that they execute a classic cross-grain glue-up.

How do they getaway withit? I suspect 1 would end up with a very nice toolbox with cracks in the sides and back. Any suggestions?

—James Hansford, Mosinee, Wisconsin

You would expect tohave issues with a cross-grain assembly such as that of a Gerstner tool chest, but they don't experience those problems. They did, however, have afewissues when buildinga walnut cabinet and had to discontinue using that wood.

Here's how they skirt potential cross-grain problems: They use quartersawn hardwoods. They specialize in quartersawn oak, and in the video (available at popula rwoodworking. com/video) I mentioned that cherry had just surpassed oak as the wood of choice. The cherry they use is also quartersawn. Using this material, coupled with the thinness of the case sides, has all but eliminated any cross-grain issues for the company.

My advice would be to use quartersawn kiln-dried lumber and keep the sides thin. You shouldn't experience any problems. But there's always a chance you could experience problems.

—Glen D. Huey, senior editor

Should I Get a Combo Machine Or a Stand-alone Planer?

I'm debating getting a planer/jointer combo machine or just a planer. I want to get a good product that won't bog down or cause problems. My main question is: Could I get by with just a planer and use a sled to prepare (joint) the first side? It would be great if I could get by without the added expense of a jointer.

— Ken Hessedal, via e-mail

I wouldn't want to work wood without a powered jointer. I have worked with the sleds that you describe and they are so slow and fussy that I instead use a handplane to dress one side of the stock then run it through the planer (this is what I do with stock that is too wide for ourjointer).

Wefeel strvngly here at the magazine that accuracy begins with the jointer because it makes the flat edges and surfaces that lead toflat boards that lead to accurate joinery.

Most woodworkers who try to get by without a jointer eventually give up and buy a jointer. Thejoinler/planer combo machines (especially the Grizzly one we reviewed in February 2008, ft 167) air very nice. If I had to recommend a way to save money, I would recommend an 8" jointer and a 12" portable planer.

— Christopher Schwarz, editor

Saw Safety Ignored

While I don't consider myself a "safety Nazi," a photo on page 2 5 of the November 2008 issue (#172) caused me to write. You show a saw in operation with all the safety gear removed. No riving knife, no blade cover, no anti-kickback pawls.

And while we're accustomed to seeing this "guard removed for clarity" conceit in the magazines, what's worse in thiscase is the operator in the photo. No hearing protection. No eye protection. And he's wearing puffy sleeves that could be grabbed by the saw's blade, pulling him into the cut with disastrous results. Please, please, please ask Adam Cherubini to show more respect for the safety of the reader (and himself) in future issues. PW

— Mona Oster, Dallas, Texas

Question? Comment?

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Popular Woodworking welcomes comments from readers about the magazine or woodworking in general, as well as questions on all areas of woodworking. We are more than happy to share our woodworking experience with you by answering your questions or adding some clarity to whatever aspect of the craft you are unsure about, and if you have a complaint, we want to address it whenever possible.

Though we receive a good deal ol mail, we try to respond to all correspondence in a prompt manner. Published correspondence may be edited for length or style. All correspondence becomes the property of Popular Woodworking.

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