83, страница 31
blade drift. As you can see, the guiding edge of the fence is simply a sharp point. This gives you the freedom to simply steer the work-piece through the cut, adjusting for any drift as you go. The only trick to installing a pivot fence is positioning it correctly on the band saw table. The distance from the teeth to the point of the fence equals the thickness of the workpiece. And the guide point should be aligned with the very tip of the teeth on the blade. The Stock. With the pivot fence firmly clamped to the band saw table, all you need to do is prepare your stock and you're ready to cut. I always make certain that the "guide" face of the stock is smooth and flat and the edges are square to the face. And before you can make the cut, you'll need a pencil line on the top edge of the workpiece to follow. I like to draw this line right where I want the blade to cut. This way you can simply guide the workpiece to "split" the line. The Cut. At this point, making the cut is pretty straightforward. Start by feeding the stock into the blade directly on the line. The workpiece will contact the blade and the pivot fence simultaneously. To get a consistent thickness, you'll need to keep the workpiece snug L. Problems and Solutions There are a couple of common problems you might encounter when resawing, but both have easy fixes. A Barrel Cut. When you end up with a cut that's rounded from top to bottom, you've experienced "barreling." There are two easy solutions for a barrel cut. First, make sure the blade is properly tensioned and increase the tension if necessary. Next, the upper guide assembly should be positioned as close to the workpiece as possible (detail 'a'). These steps will keep the blade from flexing in the cut. An Angled Cut Sometimes the cut is perfectly straight, but the workpiece tapers from top to bottom (lower far right drawing). This angled cut has a couple of possible causes. The first could be that the blade or fence is not perpendicular to the table (detail V). If this isn't the problem, take a look at the guide blocks. If not adjusted properly, they can force the blade out of alignment (detail 'c'). r, b. pivot fence SOLUTION: make certain epges of fence and blade are square to table A \ \ \ WW PROBLEM: guide blocks forcing blade out of alignment (shown) NOTE: bend is shown exaggerated in this view SOLUTION: adjust guide blocks to straighten blade
ACCESSORIES PUSH BLOCK handle glued groove PIVOT FENCE cleat allows easier sandpaper for better grip whardboard cleat glue cleat into notch A The Right Blade. For quick resaw cuts, I like to use a W-wide blade with three or four teeth per inch. against the point of the fence. And as you can see in the main photo, one hand pushes while the other applies steady pressure against the fence. Guiding the cut along the layout line is pretty easy. Just keep your eye on the top edge of the work-piece to see how the blade is tracking. If necessary, pivot the trailing end of the workpiece slightly to correct for any drift. You'll find that a slow, steady feed will give you the smoothest cut. Listen to the saw for cues on the correct rate. You want to hear a light, rasping sound as you cut. As I near the end, I pick up a simple, shop-made push block to feed the workpiece through the final few inches of the cut (inset photo and drawing at left). This lets me keep my focus on finishing the cut accurately. When the blade exits the board, you should see a straight cut from top to bottom and from end to end. But if the result isn't quite perfect, the problem is usually pretty easy to fix. Just check the box below. & |
||||||||||||||||||
