85 - Router Table, страница 20
BACK FRONT STILE CORNER BLOCK DRAWER GUIDE ^ BOTTOM DIVIDER (153/4 x 24) NOTCH DETAIL DRAWER GUIDE BACK _ CORNER BLOCK, DRAWER BOTTOM BOTTOM BOTTOM -© DRAWER BACK DRAWER GUIDE DRAWER SIDE NOTE: BOTH BOTTOM AND DIVIDER ARE NOTCHED (SEE DETAIL 'a') DRAWER FRONT FRONT STILE CORNER BLOCK TOP VIEW BACK DRAWER SIDE DRAWER BOTTOM DRAWER BACK DRAWER j SIDE DRAWER GUIDE- DRAWER FRONT DRAWER BOTTOM BOTTOM One of tine goals I had when FRONT SECTION VIEW building the case of the router table was to make sure it could be built quickly. But it still needs to be strong enough for every day use. Straightforward Joinery. As I mentioned earlier, the router table case uses sturdy plywcxxi construction with dadoes and rabbets. The whole table is built from V2" plywood. (I used Baltic birch.) Sides First. I began construction with the case sides. In Figure Id, you can see that there's a dado and a rabbet cut in each side piece. This joinery locks a divider and the case bottom in place for a strong wiggle-free assembly. Tine divider also creates a pocket for the drawer that will be added later. Before assembling the divider and bottom to the sides, I cut a 2~yV'-wide notch at the front comers of each piece, as you can see in Figure la. This notch holds a pair of narrow stiles that keep tine front of the case rigid while still providing a large opening to get at the router. The back is a simple plywood panel that's sized to overlap the sides. With these main parts cut, you can glue the case together. Comer Blocks. Tine divider and case bottom make the lower portion of the case plenty strong. But since the tabletop isn't screwed to the case, the upper part of the case needed some reinforcement. The solution I used here was to make four, angled comer blocks, as illustrated in Figure lb. You can see in the main drawing that (positioned them %" from tine top edge of tine case. The reason for this is simple. The hinged tabletop is designed to nestle down over the top of the case, so lowering the comer blocks ensures that they won't interfere with the fit. There are just two parts left to add to the case before moving on to the drawer. And those are a pair of drawer guides. They're cut to fit behind the front stiles to keep the drawer from binding in tine opening, as shown in Figures 1 and Id. Simple Drawer. The drawer in the router table provides a place to store wrenches, bits, and other supplies. And like the rest of the router table, it's straightforward to build. In the drawing above, you can see that a rabbeted frame simply wraps around the drawer bottom. The relatively thick bottom provides plenty of glue surface for a strong bond. Large, Flat Top. With the case complete, I set it aside and turned my attention to tine top, shown in the J 20 ShopNotes No. 85 |
