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making the

Top

The table saw and router table top is where the work will get done. So I was looking forward to starting on this part of the project.

A Quick Look. First I'll give you a general overview. Take a look at Figure 8 below, and you'll see that the top consists of two main sections. Each is made up of a double-thickness of MDF with plastic laminate on both sides.

Both sections wrap around the back of the saw table. And a gap between them provides a space for the splitter and blade guard. It can be filled with a "pop out" insert (Figure 10). Finally, the top is attached to the saw table by way of aluminum angle bolted to the saw table (Figure 8a). ['11 cover the rest of the details along the way.

A New Base. Before getting started, I took my saw off its stand and moved it to its new home on the workcenter cabinet. This way, when the top is ready to install, everything will be in place.

Get Started. I started by gluing up an oversized, two-layer, MDF panel for each top section. Then before applying the laminate, you'll want to cut the sections to final size and shape. The less opportunity to chip the laminate, the better.

You really have two jobs here. First, cutting each section to overall size, then making the L-shaped cutouts that allow the sections to wrap around the saw table.

I was able to do some of this work at my table saw. But the large size of the right section and the notches presented a problem. The solution is to first rough cut the pieces to size and then use a router with a

NOTE; APPLY LAMINATE AFTER CUTTING TOP TO SIZE AND TRIM FLUSH

straight bit installed and a straightedge to trim them accurately.

Plastic Laminate. Now you can apply the plastic laminate and trim it flush. You'll want to be sure to apply a backer laminate to the underside to keep the top "balanced" and flat. But don't worry about the edges, they get a different treatment later. Take a look at the article on page 10 for more information on working with laminate.

Miter Gauge Slots. You'll notice in Figure 8, that the miter gauge slots extend into the top. Since this is just for clearance, I routed oversize slots and didn't worry about perfect alignment.

Clearance. One more thing and the top sections are ready to install. In order for the top to fit over the aluminum angle and snug to the saw table, you'll need to rout a deep, narrow rabbet around the L-shaped cutouts (Figures 8a and 8b). You'll also need to counterbore for the heads of the bolts, but this can wait until the angle is installed.

Side Panels. Before installing the new top, the cabinet below needs one more addition. In Figure 9 you'll see how three MDF side panels are screwed to the cabinet to help support the top — one on the left end and one on either side of the router table case.

The panels rest on the cabinet base. A hardwood cleat at the top of each panel is used to fasten the top down. An upper partition at the back of the router table case adds additional support and helps control the dust from the router.

22 ShopNotes No. 89