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It's important that the panels support the top level with the saw ^^ table. Figure 9a shows how to find the height of the panels. Just measure from the top of the base to the top of the saw table and then subtract the thickness of the new top. New Top. Once the side panels are in place, you can take the extension wings and fence off the saw and switch to the new top. The aluminum angle used to attach the top is fastened to the saw table using the bolts and threaded holes that held the extension wings. To allow easy adjustment of the height of the angle, I drilled the bolt holes oversize. Figure 9b shows how to adjust the angle for a flush fit of the top. Once the aluminum angle is attached and adjusted, the two top sections can be set in place and screwed down. Final Details. All that's left are a few loose ends (Figure 10). First comes the splitter insert that fills the gap at the back of the top. It's ^^ sized to fit snugly in its pocket and ▼ has laminate on both sides. I added a finger hole to remove it and a cleat keeps it in place (margin photo). ROUTER TABLE CASE PARTITION (1tV2 * 2 OHO RIGHT SIDE PANEL CLEAT (34 x 1Yz - 17%) koundover on long edges Of PANELS x m LEFT SIDE PANEL (21% * 29'/?) Top Cleat. The back edge of the insert rests on a long cleat that's screwed to the underside of the top (Figure 10b). This cleat's main purpose is to connect the top sections and keep them flat and true. You'll notice that the cleat has a good-size notch cut into it. This provides clearance for the motor when the blade is tilted to 45°. Turn to Shop Shortcuts on page 14 for more details on this. T-Molding. The last item is the top edging. For this I turned to easy-to-install and chip-proof, plastic T-molding. But before starting on this, decide whether you plan on building the outfeed stand on page 26. If so, hold off and install all the T-molding at once. Installation. The first thing to do is round all the corners of the top so the molding will bend around them. The T-molding is held in place by a flange that fits a slot in the edges of the top (Figure 10a). So routing this narrow, centered slot is the next job. You can mark the ends of the rip fence rail and stop the slots there. Installing the T-molding on the top is as easy as pressing or lightly tapping it into place. You'll find the simple technique I used to bend it around the corners in Shop Shortcuts on page 14. 23 10 A Splitter Insert. Removal of the "pop out" insert makes way for installation of the splitter and blade guard. |
