Woodworker's Journal 101-Projects-for-Woodworkers, страница 192

Drill holes deep enough to take %" threaded inserts. These inserts have an inside thread for a V*" bolt, and sharp outside threads to cut into the wood. A screwdriver slot in one end provides the means of inserting them. They can be purchased in some hardware stores or by mail from Brook-stone Co., 127 Vose Farm Rd., Peterborough, NH 03458.

The adjusting screws are made from 2!4" carriage bolts with their heads cut off and inserted into lX"-diameter wood drawer pulls. Drill the pulls for a tight fit on the end of the bolts and dab a bit of epoxy on the bolt before twisting into the pull.

There will be about of space between the frame sides and uprights. This is taken up with a thin hardwood washer cut by hand or with a

hole saw and electric drill. Fiber washers can also be used.

The mirror may have a cardboard backing glued to it. Do not try to remove it, as you'll surely scratch the silvering and spoil the mirror. Strip the commercial frame from the mirror and insert the mirror into the frame rabbet. It should fit easily.

If it's tight, ease the rabbet a bit. Cut a '4" plywood back for the mirror. This piece is held in place with three thin cleats screwed at each end to the frame.

Finishing is a matter of preference. We gave our mirror a very light coat of walnut stain to accentuate the grain, and finished up with three coats of W'atco Danish Oil, a penetrating sealer that leaves a soft hand-rubbed glow.

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