Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-4, страница 25

Woodworker

WOODWORKING MACHINES 5 in 1 Combination

joint line (Fig. 11). Any small amount of wood left in the corner is removed with a chisel.

5AUJIN& 0FF VOASTE

each SIDE ^F nsvt-pviu

The joint should be ready for a trial fit. Use a protective block and mallet to tap the joint together. If it seems too tight, take it apart and pare a bit off the dovetail. When applying glue, spread a bit on the sides of the dovetail. The bottom of the dovetail socket is end grain so glue spread there serves no useful purpose. Use a square to check the trueness of the joint before the glue sets up.

Usually, when making dovetail joints there are three other corners to contend with; then all joints are cut, glued and clamped up at the same time. After the glue cures, use a block plane set for a light skew cut to shave down the slightly protruding pins and dovetail. Plane in from the edge of the pins and tail to avoid splintering. A cabinet file or belt sander can also be used but care must be taken to avoid marring the board faces.

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F16.12.

Single HALFBUUD EB^-CMI-

Fig. 12 shows another useful version of the single dovetail. In some furniture work it is preferable to conceal the end grain of the dovetail and in this situation, the half-blind single dovetail fills the bill. It's a good choice for joining rails to legs.

Lay out the flared dovetail so that it extends % to Va into the thickness of the member receiving it. The remaining web conceals the end grain of the dovetail. With this joint it's better to lay out and cut the dovetail first and

(continued on page 49)

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