Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-5, страница 18

A WOODWORKER'S BEST KEPT SECRET.

WATCO

Danish Oil

WOOD FINISH

You, too. can discover the modem adaptation of the finest of old-time hand-rubbed finishing by using world-famous "Watco Danish Oil Wood Finish " Watco is the "original" Danish Oil 'used by woodworkers and do-it-yourself professionals for more than fifty years. What makes Watco so remarkable are the beautiful, natural results you can obtain easily, without all the tiring hours of hand-rubbing.

In one easy application. Watco Danish Oil primes, seals, finishes, hardens, and protects wood never needing refinishing or resanding. and requiring little maintenance.

Watco Danish Oil Finish is available in Natural, and in Medium, Dark, and Black ___ „., _ _____.._ ._

| Send for your FREEHow To Beautifully Finish Wood bookie) and the name of your nearest Watco distributor

Walnut Shades. And now. four newly added colors in Cherry. Golden Oak, Fruit-wood. and English Oak allow one-step finishing" without pre-staining.

Be sure it's Watco Danish Oil Finish, the original, since 1927. and still the besf.'

WATCO-DENN1S CORP., 1756 22nd SI Santa Monica. CA 90404. Dept.wj.93

Name

Address_

City_____________

State ___

213/870-4781

Zip

Wood Moisture Meters

Pocket-SI 26

MINI LIGNO

7%. . 20V

only $110

Inci Case, Batteries and Pins few ¹ ir. and "h Measuring Depth $4Zfl. 1 x 2*4 X 5' 1

* Unique * Convenient * Easy to Use

New accessories tor moisture meters to monitor wood moisture arid EMC during drying Specially suited lor small dry kilns - conventional, dehumidifymg or sotar dry kilns. New 'tee brochures <or mot si me mefers^ olecuodes and all accessories^_

ignomdt P.O. Box 30145-w|, Portland, OH 97230

THE ROUTER BRACKET

The "Router Bracket" brings together the depth adjustment and tilting features of a radial arm saw with the high speed precision of a router, which allows you to produce intricate curved molding and other types of pin routing projects. (Fits most Sears radial arm saws./

To order, send check or money order for S-l.S plus S3 00 shipping ;ind hand-linn IVA residents add 4% sales lax)

Restoring Antiques,

the ROUTER BRACKET

P.O. Box 533 Richmond. VA 23204

(continued from page 16)

raised or you will cut through the surrounding finish in a flash. Try to sand evenly. With large defects there is a tendency to work on the middle part. Work carefully, wipe clean and inspect frequently. When the surface ts wet it becomes difficult to tell the finish from the water, and with mineral spirits it's even more difficult. Patching isn't easy and often the only answer for a bare spot is to strip and refmish the whole surface.

Large areas of sags or dust particles can be leveled using a block of wood wrapped with the wet and dry sandpaper. Use plenty of lubricating fluid, wipe dry frequently and inspect carefully. Above all go slowly.

When all the obvious defects have been removed, or nearly removed, shift to 600 grit paper. Work the whole surface to obtain an even texture before beginning the next step, Inspect the surface carefully to make sure that all the scratches left by the previously used grits have been removed. As always, work parallel to the grain of the wood. The minute scratches left on the final surface will not be noticeable if they are running in the same direction as the grain of the wood.

When you are satisfied that the surface will smooth out and polish with rubbing compound, give it a good cleaning. Be sure to remove ali traces of dust left by the silicon carbide papers. One speck of grit can result in an ugly set of scratches. In all of the above steps, save the edges and corners till last, and then be very careful. When sanding, corners can become bare wood before you know it.

The next step is to rub down the surface. Restorers who strive for authenticity use pumice and oil instead of silicon carbide papers and then polish with rottenstone and oil. This results in a highly polished surface. These techniques are not recommended for amateurs. They require much training and experience before a satisfactory surface can be obtained. Also, these finishing materials aren't readily available in quality grades. A lot of know-how and experience are required to separate the really good pumice and rottenstone products from the not-so-satisfactory ones.

Today's amateur has no need to bother with these old-fashioned materials, Nearly all paint and hardware stores, and all automotive supply houses stock automotive rubbing and polishing compounds which do a really good job with a minimum of work. Rubbing compound is used first to remove all traces of the minute scratches left by silicon carbide papers. This material can be applied by hand or, on large Hat surfaces, with a slow speed polishing machine, By hand it is best to work parallel to the wood grain for the reasons outlined above. With the machine, keep the sheepskin bonnet wet and keep the machine moving so that the surface will not become overheated. If the finish goes too hot it will roll up into little balls under the bonnet, and then a stripping and refinishing operation becomes necessary. Read and follow the manufacturer's directions, and clean and inspect the surface frequently. When the whole surface has reached a dull, even sheen, and a low luster satin surface is desired, a coat of a good carnauba based wax will complete the job. If a highly polished surface is desired, a little more time and work will be required. A good rubdown with automotive type polishing compound will do the trick. As with the rubbing compound, it can be applied by hand or with a machine on flat surfaces. Be sure that all traces of rubbing compound have been washed from the sheepskin pad.

When you have a lot of work to do, keep two bonnets, one for rubbing compound and one for polishing compound. Again, when an even, shiny surface has been reached, complete with a coat of good wax. The wax will improve the general appearance of the surface by leaving an even, shiny appearance, \V\j