Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-5, страница 20
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Pa. 16505 The Beginning Woodworker Dovetail Joints: Part Two Through and Half-blind Multiple Dovetails Previously, we discussed the laying out and cutting of a single dovetail joint and a few variations. If the beginning woodworker practices making these joints, using both pine and various hardwoods, he will have few problems in making good multiple dovetail joints. HALF" PIPI CWEXAIU NiTTV FutKEO ew f MOCTIPLE Tftranuan Rs^t-TAi L-5 Multiple dovetail joints are excellent in any situations where four boards must be joined at right angles to form a box. One of the most common applications is the joining of drawer fronts and backs to the sides. Multiple dovetails can be machine cut, but every woodworker should know how to make these joints with hand tools. Besides experiencing the pleasures of working wood by hand, the manual skills and confidence gained will be of considerable benefit even when using machinery. In order to avoid confusion when referring to the parts of a multiple dovetail joint, we shall use the nomenclature shown in Fig. 1. When you plan to use dovetail joints, some thought must be given to the stresses that the joints will be subject to. TTifSsijsM n«ie-p»iLS Topical. DRAPER a^vmocn^n Fig. 2 shows a drawer assembled with half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the back. Obviously, the interlocking flaired pins and tails will prevent the drawer front from pulling loose even if the glue should fail, so it's up to you to determine how the joint will be stressed in use and plan your joints so that the wedging effect will be in the right direction. The size and shape of the pins and tails must also be considered. If you examine the drawer joints on a good Cjuality factory made chest, you'll most likely find that all of the joints are of the half-blind variety and the dovetails and pins are ail equal in width. (Fig. 3A). This uniformity is characteristic of machine made dovetails. When cutting dovetails by hand, most craftsmen prefer to make the tails considerably wider than the pins as shown in Fig. 3B. The reason for this is simply that they look less confusing and more elegant. Also, if you're going to take the time to handcut dovetails, you might as well make them so they are not mistaken for machined joints. tails ARE SilE A- 1-VtOtlNE MAt>£ ' RJ'VfeTAiL'S (HALF BUMP) . Hand CUT P23VETA IL.S fMAjjr BOiJM Ft 6. 3 MA£HIN£P AMD httNDCUT CfnlETAlL. 0(51 NTS Before laying out dovetail joints (or any other joints for that matter), the joining boards should be dressed flat and have their ends squared. You should also mark the face surfaces of all boards to be joined. In the July/August issue we discussed the best angle or flare for a single dovetail. This applies also to multiple dovetails. The most practical choice is an angle of about 80 degrees which is equivalent to a taper of 1:6. Too much flare increases the risk of the corners of the tails and pins spitting off, while too little flare reduces the mechanical strength of the joint. Fig. 4 shows how a 1:6 taper is laid out on a piece of scrap with a clean square edge. The vertical line (marked with a try square), is divided into six equal units which in this case is six inches. At the six inch mark, a horizontal line is drawn and a mark is Ws haw Florida's selection ot t hard and soli veneers, etc tot and novice Send HENEGAN S WOODSHED 7760 Soultiern BM IWJI W«l Film Beldi Fl Ml 1305) 793-1557 |
