Woodworker's Journal 1985-9-1, страница 61

As shown in the joinery cross-section, the trim around the top and bottom panels is tongued where it meets these panels, and grooved to accept a spline where it meets the side panels. Both the tongue and the spline grooves are cut before these sections of trim are assembled around the panels. A bearing-guided wing cutter can be used to cut the V* in. grooves in the panels and trim. Note that the trim around the top and bottom panels is mitered at the corners.

The box sides are constructed as shown in the side panel and corner de-

View from underside with drawer slightly open. Note pull recesses on both horizontal trim and veneered drawer front.

tail. The corner pieces are glued up to the sides and after the side assemblies are trimmed back to their final width, the spline grooves are cut, using the bearing-guided wing cutter. The recessed drawer pulls in the boxes are cut before the boxes are assembled. Use the router with a Vi in. cove cutter to shape these pulls.

You may now assemble the boxes using V* in. wide plywood splines in the spline grooves. Because the spline grooves are approximately 13/16 in. wide, the splines should not bottom. For each box you will have a top and a bottom with the trim applied, and two sides that have corners already glued up. The third side, which has no corners applied, simply fits between the side panels to become the back. Note, however, that with the small solid color module, which is four-sided, the drawer is replaced by a panel, in effect creating a closed box.

After all five boxes have been assembled, join the three burl veneer boxes together, using both glue, and hex-head screws and T-nuts, where indicated. You may now round the edges and corners of these boxes, using a V* in. round-over bit. With this same bit, round the corners and edges of the two modules that will later be solid color lacquered. Several passes with the router will be needed to achieve the full Va in. round-over profile.

To build the drawers you may wish to refer to the copy and illustrations in

Special Techniques (pages 23-27), which explain in detail the procedure and jigs for cutting box joints. Note that the drawer carcases (Q and R) for the three veneered modules are 5 in. high, while the bar drawer carcase (M and N) is 6 in. high. As shown, the drawer sides and ends are rabbeted to accept a V* in. thick plywood bottom (U). After assembly, the drawer sides and back end are gently rounded along the top perimeter, to soften what would otherwise be a hard, square edge.

The drawer faces are veneered using the same cross-banding technique utilized on the other veneered surfaces. The drawer face width and length is dimensioned to accommodate a '/«in. thick ash edging (P) all around. The corners of this edging may be mitered, however, we show them as lapped and butted. The bar drawer face is simply a section of plywood with a Vs in. thick edging (L) all around. The Vs in. edging thickness is necessary to accommodate the pull recess that is cut into this drawer (see detail). The pull recesses that are cut into all four drawers are cut with the same Vi in. cove cutter used to cut the corresponding recesses in the carcases. Although the pull recess in the veneered drawer fronts will extend into the plywood, because this recess is not visible there is no need to use a thicker edging, as with the bar drawer face, where the recess is visible. The drawer fronts are located and screwed onto the drawer carcases after the drawer slides (AA) have been installed and the drawers mounted in the carcases. This will enable you to accurately position the fronts. The bar drawer front must be lacquered before it is installed, however. The drawer slides are 16 in. Ac-curides® (part no. D7569, set of 5 pairs $67.00) available from The Woodworkers' Store, 21801 Industrial Boulevard, Rogers, MN 55374.

We finished our burl veneered modules with clear lacquer, and applied an automotive lacquer to the solid color modules. We used brown, however any dark color could achieve the same dramatic contrast of light and dark. The solid color modules should first have all seams and imperfections filled with rock hard water putty. Next these modules are sealed with an application of lacquer-based sandable sealer, and finally three or more coats of lacquer or enamel are sprayed on. A careful sanding is necessary after each step, and between coats of the lacquer or enamel. Although we used an automotive type lacquer applied with a spray gun, aerosol cans of enamel will provide an equally attractive final finish. You may

also purchase spray cans of clear lacquer to finish the veneered modules.

After the finish is thoroughly dry, assemble the two solid color modules to the three previously joined veneered modules. Use the T-nut system to attach the bar module, and fix the smaller solid color module in place by screwing down into it with wood screws through the bottom of the veneered module directly above.

Should you choose to include the bar feature that we show, refer to the appropriate details of the stemware and bottle racks (V and X). These racks and the bottle rack supports (Y) are made from Vi in. stock. The stemware slots are made by drilling Vs in. diameter holes and sawing out from these holes to the board edge. Note that a V* in. thick by V* in. wide retainer molding (W) is applied along this edge to prevent the glasses from accidently slipping out when the drawer is opened. The bottle rack holes are cut with a 3Vi in. diameter hole saw. To make the two supports start with a single length of stock 16'/8 in. long. Drill a V/i in. diameter hole exactly through the board center, and then cut the board in

Large pull-out drawer features bottle and stemware racks.

half through the center of this hole to create the individual supports. The supports are simply glued into the drawer carcase. The stemware racks are glued to cleats (Z) which are then screwed into the inside of the drawer front, as shown in the bar drawer cross-sectional view.

There can be little argument that at first glance this project appears to be somewhat complicated. Nevertheless, it is our hope that the carcase construction techniques featured here will open up a host of new and exciting design possibilities for the serious woodworker. W\|