Woodworker's Journal 1993-17-4, страница 38

Lay oul and mark the location of the two counterbored holes in each box stretcher, then bore them oul. It's impor-tail! to bore the holes at this point in the construction—once you assemble the box. the holes can't be bored.

Assemble the Box: Thoroughly sand the box parts—then dry fit them to make sure all looks okay. Using glue on the mating parts, assemble the two sides, the four stretchers, the divider and the back. Add clamps and adjust them as needed to make sure the box is square. Once everything looks satisfactory, set aside to dry.

Make the L pper and Ijower Runners: You'll need about 4¹/: feet of -h in. by in. stock to make the upper

of the front (T), sides (U), back (V) and bottom (W). It's important to note, however, that the front on the bottom drawer extends '/■> in. above the sides, w hile the front on the lop drawer extends '/-> in. below the sides. This overhang acts as a stop against the upper runners.

Cut the various rabbets, dadoes and grooves in the front, sides and back. Also bore a pair ol counterbored holes in each front to accept I in. by no, 8 wood screws. Assemble all the parts with glue and clamps. When dry, cut the bottom to length and width and slide it into place from the back of the drawer. Secure it with a couple of small screws driven up through the bottom and into the lower edge of the back.

Since it s dillimit to glue applied edging perfectly flush w ith plywood, the added w idth allows a little margin for error. The slight overhang that results is removed with a router and a flush trim bit. so you get a perfectly flush fit. One last point: whenever possible, cut the edging a little long and trim it flush on each end after assembly.

Add the Seat and Box Top Edging: Begin by apply ing the narrow edging to the back edge of both the seat and the box top. When dry. remove the clamps and use the router to flush trim the edging on both lop and bottom. Also, use the table saw to trim it flush on each end of the parts.

Next, apply the w ide edging to the remaining edges of the seat and box top. Note that you will need to miter the corners. Do ihe ends first, followed by the front. When finished, use the router and a ^l/l in, radius bit to add the roundover to the wide edging on both the seat and the box lop.

With ihe edging attached all around the seal, you can now cut the 1'/: in. by I V? in. notches for the long leg and the seat post. Mark the location of the notches and cut ihem w ith the band saw.

Cut Dadoes in the Box Sides: Next, use the dado head to cut ihe 7* in. wide by 7s in. deep by 27- in. long stopped dadoes in the box sides to accept the box stretcher tenons. Also, cut the 7* in. w ide by 7* in. deep through dado for the box divider.

Add Edging to the Front Stretchers. Divider and Sides: Now, add the narrow edging to the front edges of the front box stretchers and to the front edge of the box divider. Also, add the narrow edging to the front and back edges of the two box sides. As suggested earlier, it's best to cut the edging a liule long and trim it flush on each end after assembly.

Add Some Grooves, Tenons, Rabbets, Notches and Hides: You can now cut ihe 7* in. by 7* in. groove along the back of ihe box sides. Later, when the box is assembled, this groove will accept the rabbets cut in the box back.

Cut the tenons on each end of ihe box stretchers, then notch ihe edging on each end (see Stretcher Tenon Detail!. Also, cut the same notch on the front of the box divider.

The rabbets on the edges of the box back are now cut. Check for a snug l it in the side grooves.

runners (Ol and lower runners (Pi.

As shown in the front view, the upper runners are centered in ihe drawer opening. Scribe location lines (front-to-back) to make sure they are level, then secure each one with three 1 '/■» in. long by no. 8 wood screws. Since the upper runners also serve a> drawer stops (they contact the inside of the drawer fronts), you'll need to Ittcatc the front end of each upper runner I 7- in. from the front of the edging (see exploded view).

Cut ihe two lower runners to fit snugly between the lower box stretchers. Like the upper runners. they are screwed in place. When attaching them, make sure they are flush with the lop surface of the stretchers so ihat the drawer will slide smoothly.

Make the Drawers: Tlie two drawers are next. The basic drawer box consists

Now. cut the two drawer faces (Si to size. Use the band saw to cut the diamond shape, ihen use a 45 degree chamfer bit to cut along the back edge of the cutout to create room for a finger grip (see Finger Grip Detail). Attach ihe drawer faces to the fronts with I in, long by no. 8 wood screws driven through the prebored holes in ihe fronts.

Finish Up: Final sand all ihe parts, finishing with 220-grif. Use a vacuum followed by tack rag lo remove all dust. For a clear final finish, we used three coats of water-based polyurethane.

When the finish dries, screw the seat to the base, then screw the box to the scat. When attaching the box, you'll need to use a short screwdriver in order It) drive the screws through the holes predrilled in the stretchers. Add the drawers to complete the project. E3J

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