Woodworker's Journal Summer-2008, страница 68

Woodworker

bolts (pieces 7). Add fender washers (pieces 8), the clamp pad and the lower pad Nyloc® nuts (pieces 9). Tighten it until the rod is flush with the opening, then tighten the top nuts until the washers are trapped.

Joining the Bar

Bore a 1/4" hole in the fixed stile nearest to the head of the miter gauge, at the location shown in the Drawings. Then, using the bar from the miter gauge as a pattern, mark and drill a 1/4" hole for the toe bolt in the other fixed stile. Notch the head spacer (piece 10) as shown in the Drawings, and glue and clamp it to the bottom of the fixed stile, flush with

the end. When the glue has set, drill down through the fixed stile to produce a through 1/4" hole. Next, chuck a 3/8" drill in your press and counter-bore the bottom of the other fixed stile 1/4" deep. This will accommodate the toe spacer.

Reassemble your miter gauge, then cut the toe spacer (piece 11) to length (this will depend on your miter gauge). Fit the spacer into the counterbore on the fixed stile. Thread the clamp bolts into the T-nuts in the sliding stiles, and you're ready to attach the bridge to the miter gauge with the head and toe bolts (pieces 12 and 13). Run the knob stop nuts (pieces 14) down each clamp bolt, fol

lowed by the knobs (pieces 15). Tighten the knobs, then tighten the nuts back up against the knobs to lock them in place.

Apply epoxy to the bottom of each fender washer on your clamp pads and screw the pads down. The jig acts as a clamp here. When the epoxy has set, apply Loctite® to the three threads above the nuts. Use rubber cement to attach pieces of router pad (pieces 16) to the bottom of the pads.

Finish the wooden parts on your new clamping jig with a few coats of wipe-on varnish and let it cure. Now your miter gauge will function more accurately and safely than ever. &

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Resource Digest

68 miter gauge clamping jig