Popular Woodworking 2002-10 № 130, страница 35
THE STANDARD IN SANDERS
Here you can see how the stop works with the fence system. Note the thin guide strip that prevents your stop from wobbling as you set it.
the upright. Re-attach the wings and flush the saw table up to the wings by resting a straight piece of lumber across the wings. Adjust the saw's height and lock it down.
The last step is to make the fences and the stop, and to attach the tapes. First rip a couple of 3V2" -wide sections of plywood from your scrap. Then cut them to 1" longer than the distance from the blade to the outside edge of the upright. That should be about 16V4", as long as your saw is centered correctly on the base.
Cut 3/8" x 3/4" dados 1" to the center from one edge. The edge that the dado is closest to is the bottom edge. Repeat the 1/2" dado for the tape so it's above the dado. Glue in a 4"-long filler into the groove at the end next to the blade and attach a length of aluminum channel to fill the remaining length. Make a mirror part for the other side. This keeps your hands at least 4" away from the blade - a safe distance. Attach the fences by lowering the saw (as if you were making a cut) and butting each fence against the blade. Clamp the fence pieces there and screw them in place.
Cut the measuring tape to 16" and stick it in place. Use a square block to index off the 16" marks and, after cutting the tapes to length (around 46"), stick them in place, butting the end up against the block on each side of the saw blade.
Finally, make the stop that runs in the channel. The stop is a simple 2" x 3" block with a 1/4" hole in it. Make a guide strip that's about 5/16" x 1/16" . It's easier if you make the strip a little thick and plane it down to the thickness. Drill the 1/4" hole through and test it with a bolt and star knob. PW
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