Popular Woodworking 2005-02 № 146, страница 75
With the two bottom rails in place, I spread glue on the top edges of the rails and in the dado before tipping the bottom in to place. Because of the mechanical fit of the rails and bottom, it only take a couple clamps to secure the bottom of the case assembly. After spreading glue on the end of the bottom, and the cheeks of the tenons, the remaining cabinet side is carefully put in place. The trapezoid shaped block is laid out on each end of a long piece of wood to make cutting and handling easier. Door With the back panel completed, and the case parts assembled, It was time to work on the door. The glass sits in a 1/4"-wide by 3/8"-deep rabbet and is held in place with 1/4" -square strips of wood.This glass stop is nailed in place after the cabinet is finished. The outer stiles and rails are held together with mortise-and-tenon joints. The intermediate stiles and rail also have tenons on their ends. The door tenons all have a step in them to accommodate the rabbet for the door's glass. The VV-wide mortises are in line with the inside of the rabbet. At the upper portion of the bookcase door, the intermediate rail joins the two narrow stiles with a half-lap joint as shown on page 72. I made the joints for the outer stiles and rails, and then clamped the door together to lay out the joints for the intermediate stiles and rails. I cut these joints, as well as the all tenons for all the door parts, with a stack dado set in the table saw. I assembled the door in stages, to avoid putting together a lot of parts at once. I assembled the half-lap joints first. The top and bottom rails were then put on the ends of the smaller stiles and clamped. While this assembly was drying, I cut the mortise for the lock, and All of the cuts to form the capital block were made on the the vise while I smooth out the saw band saw, as shown here. The final cut will be made after marks with a rasp, followed by a file, the block is smooth. and then #150-grit sandpaper. popwood.com 71 |
