Woodworker's Journal 1982-6-5, страница 23

will not be able to take it apart intact. If you would enjoy the challenge of trying this joint, plan on leaving plenty of wood between the mortise bottom and the back or blind surface; at least V% inch is needed to withstand the wedges mashing against the mortise bottom. Cut the mortise bottom to flare '/» inch at each end and use wedges no longer than the depth of the kerfs cut in the tenons.

Yet another type of wedged tenon joint is one where multiple tenons are cut and each tenon is kerfed diagonally for one wedge (Fig. 7). This is an excellent joint for joining wide pieces of solid stock at a right angle. The wedges add additional strength and if made of contrasting wood, provide an interesting effect.

FIG. 7

PL

P,

f^r wepge

MULTIPLE WEPSjED MA^TlSE^ "TEM£>N 0,51nt beimel asscmbly

Depending on the width of the board to be joined, the number of tenons needed, and their width, are laid out allowing for a notch at each end equal to one half the width of a tenon. Like the box joint, the tenons are best cut with a jig on the tablesaw with the waste between tenons being removed by passes over a dado head.

Mortises are marked on the mating pieces by scribing from the tenons and most of the waste is drilled out before the mortises are squared off with a chisel. To wedge the tenons use a back saw to cut diagonally across each tenon from corner to corner and almost to the bottom. Wedges are cut from a block of scrap in the same manner as previously described, allowing extra length for trimming flush. Care should be taken to cut the wedges uniformly in thickness so that they will appear identical when trimmed flush. If one or two are thicker than the rest, they will stick out like the proverbial sore thumb and the appearance of the joint will be marred.

There is another group of wedged joints that are designed to be disassembled if necessary. These joints, called loose tenon or tusk joints, are not glued but employ one or more

(continued on next page)

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