Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-3, страница 19

reached into the leg.

When all of the parts were cleaned and fitted, and the screw holes bored, the chair was reassembled using epoxy glue. The long screw through the center of each brace {see sketch B) pulled the legs up tight against the seat rails on either side and eliminated the need for any kind of clamps

CHAIR LS&i R<MU

Prace

in the assembly process. The chair was then allowed to dry overnight. The next day the chair was strong and steady.

Next, a new cane seat was installed. This wasn't really very difficult to do. Prewoven cane can be purchased at nearly any upholstery supply house and, by bringing a sample of the old seat, I was able to get a duplicate in new cane. After cutting to slightly larger than necessary dimensions (^l/4 in. or more), I put the cane in water and soaked it for twenty minutes or so. An installation tool was made by cutting a piece of % in. thick hardwood to 1 in. wide by about 6 to 8 inches long. As shown in sketch C, one end was sanded to a 3/16 in. taper and all corners rounded slightly.

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Spline was purchased along with the cane and soaked along with it. A piece of spline was cut just long enough to fit the groove in the back of the chair rail. Spreading the woven cane on the seat so that it hung evenly on all sides, I then pushed the spline and caning into the groove. The wooden tool described above was helpful here. When necessary, it was tapped with a small mallet. The spline was set just even with the top of the chair rail (see sketch D). In order to pull the cane evenly, I next worked on the front rail - not either side.

The excess caning was removed with a sharp knife or razor blade. The cut was angled down and out against the outside wall of the groove. When all was finished, the whiskers on the seat were removed by quickly passing a flame over the seat. I took care not to pause or it would have scorched the new seat —or worse, a seat rail. When it dried, the cane tightened up like a drum.

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