Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-4, страница 31

to the body, on both sides carve a concave depression which narrows the neck and accents where the folded wings would be on the body. Continue around the back of the neck carving shallower than the side cuts (Fig. 7). Your neck shaping should look tike Hg. 8.

STEP 6. SHAPING THE BACK

Using a small half-round gouge (Fig. 9) carve a groove at the base of both sides of the neck (Fig. 10). Carve a similar groove down the middle of the back making the depth less as you near the tail. This cut does not go all the way to the tip of the tail. Round over all edges formed by your gouge evenly with your jackknife. At the base of the neck there is a little hollow area. Carve down the back of the neck (Fig. 11). Removing the bulk of the wood formed by your half-round at the intersecting 'Y'\ This rounding will accent the bulk of the bird's wings.

STEP 7. MAKING THE EYE POCKETS

Carving with your jackknife, make a depression on both sides of the head (Fig. 12 and 13). This depression should be slightly concave (front view Fig. 13). You may have to use more of the knife point to make this cut. If you use too much of the wider part of the blade you will be unable to turn the knife "to achieve this depression. Round over the top of the head and cheeks into this depression eliminating any sharp edges.

STEP 8. SHAPING THE NECK AND BEAK

Carve down the back of the neck (Fig. 14A) from the top of the head and

shape into the shoulder area, slightly concave around the base of the neck. This shaping will slightly narrow the neck from the body. Carve from the forward end of the eye depression down the beak at an angle (Fig. 14B) so when both sides are done the top of the beak will come to a sharp edge (Fig. IS). Do the same to the underside of the beak. Fig. 16 will show the end view of the beak. This diamond shape continues to the head.

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STEP 9. FINISHING THE BEAK AND EYES

Round over the end of the beak (Fig, 17) and bring the tip of the beak to a point. From the top view bring the beak to a point (Fig. 18). Mark in the location of the nostrils by using Fig. 17 and 18 as a guide. Making sure your pencil marks are balanced, use the point of your jackknife to carve opposite elliptical cuts and remove wood from the nostril holes. Start by removing a very small sliver and gradually widen this hole to its proper size (Fig. 17A). Sand the beak, using your sandpaper to help shape the raised edges so they are straight.

We will only make an impression for eyes for the decoy. (This step is optional). To locate where to make eyes, use Fig. 17 and draw a line up the head from the corner of the upper and lower beak joint. The eyes are located in the middle of the nostril behind the beak lines. To make the eye depressions use a piece of 3/16-inch hollow tubing and push hard in eye location and it will depress a round groove, forming the circumference of the eye.

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STEP 10. SANDING

To complete the decoy, the entire piece must be sanded. Fold your sandpaper in thirds (Fig. 19) to fit the different shapes and contours of the body (Fig. I9A). This method will enable you to remove ridges and depressions smoothly. Each carving you do may require sanding and proper sanding will help you as a finish-shaping tool. This decoy should be smooth with no carving marks left on it.

STEP II. MOUNTING

There are many ways to mount a decoy, In this case we are using a cross section of natural wood 3 inches in diameter, about V* inches thick. Drill a Vi-inch hole in the center of the bottom of the body about '/j-inch deep. The angle drilled will determine the atti-tide of the decoy. Be sure when drilling that the hole isn't crooked side to side. Drill a Vi-inch hole in the center of your base. Cut 3 inches of '/i-inch dowel and glue bird to base.

STEP 12. STAINING AND FINISH

Now that your sandpiper is mounted, it's time to decide on its colors. Traditionally decoys were given a coat of stain and that's all.

You can stain the entire piece one color, or stain the bird and dowel one color and the base another, or leave the base or bird natural. After staining, wipe with a cloth to remove excess stain. Allow to dry overnight. There should be a few coats of finish sealer applied over the stain to make the carving easier to clean and dust. Try a satin or gloss polyurethane and apply at least 3 coats to the entire piece, sanding lightly with fine sandpaper between coats. Because of the shape of this piece you may have runs or drips in your finish. Be a little extra careful when applying your polyurethane by not brushing on too heavily your coats.

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The decoy can be further carved to create this fully detailed least sandpiper. The book " Woodcutting Illustrated" provides details.