Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-6, страница 44

Early American

Wall Secretary

Early American furniture continues to enjoy a great deal of popularity in this country. This piece, made from pine, certainly has all the flavor, and the charm, of that style.

It's a piece that can be put to use almost anywhere in the house, but we think it can be particularly handy near a telephone since the front folds down to form a writing surface.

The two sides (parts A) can be made first. If you can't get 9V* in. wide stock you'll have to edge-glue a couple of narrower boards in order to get the needed width. Apply glue to both mating surfaces, then use bar or pipe clamps to clamp together. Allow to dry overnight.

Cut both sides to overall length and width, then lay out and mark the location of the dadoes for the top (part B), upper shelf (part C), middle shelf (part D) and the bottom (part E). The dadoes for parts B and C are Vt in. deep by V* in. wide and go completely across the board. The dado for part E is also ^J/» in. deep by V* in. wide, but it

is stopped at a point I in. from the front edge. The dado for part D is V» in. deep by Vi in. wide and is stopped at a point l'/a in. from the front edge.

The dadoes are best cut using the dado-head cutter in conjunction with the table saw, although a router can also do the job. It's a good idea to cut the dadoes slightly less than the thickness of the mating board. Then, when the mating board is later sanded, the fit should be just right.

Next, use a router equipped with a ^%A in. piloted rabbet bit to cut the V* in. by V* in. rabbet along the inside back edge. Note that the rabbet stops at the dadoes for parts C and E.

Now, the grid pattern can be transferred to the drawing. A band or saber saw will cut it to shape in short order.

Parts B, C, D and E can now be cut to overall length and width, All are V* in. thick stock except for the '/i in. thick part D. A router with a ¹A in. straight bit will cut the ^lA in. by '/« in. stopped dadoes (for parts H) in the bottom of part C and the top of part D.

The tenons on each end of parts D and H are best cut with the dado-head. Note that the front edge of part E is cut at a 45 degree bevel.

After part F is made, all parts can be given a thorough sanding, working up to 220 grit. Assemble as shown using glue and wood screws, countersunk and plugged, to secure parts B, C, E. Check for squareness.

Apply glue to the back half of the tenon on each end of part D, then apply glue to the front half of its mating dado in part A. When part D is slid in from the back, this gluing technique serves to spread the glue out evenly. Parts H and I can be added in the same manner. Following this, the back (G) is secured in place with finishing nails.

The door panel (part M) will require edge glued stock. The bevel is best cut on the table saw with the blade tilted at an angle of about 9 degrees. It's a good idea to clamp a tall (about 6 in.) auxiliary fence to your rip fence in order to support the panel as it's passed over the blade.

The panel groove in parts J and K can be cut on the table saw with the dado-head. However, the panel groove in parts I is stopped, so a router will have to be used here.

After sanding all parts, the door is assembled as shown. Don't glue the panel in place, it must be free to float.

The project can now be stained to suit. We used two coats of Minwax Golden Oak Wood Finish followed by several coats of their antique oil finish.

If not available locally, the door hinge (called a combination hinge support) is available from The Woodworker's Store, 21801 Industrial Blvd., Rogers, MN 55374. Order part number D4750. The price is S2.75 each, plus $1.50 handling and insurance charge.

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