Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-6, страница 47

paper sandwiched between (brown paper bag paper works well) the glue block and the stock. The paper will

Photo A — Stock is held against rip-fence to cut spline grooves. Table saw is equipped with a 'A in. dado-head cutter.

make it easier to remove the block.

Now join parts B to C. D to E. and G to H. Make sure that the end with the correct angle is joined - it's easy to get them confused. Clamp with two deep throat clamps using even pressure on both sides (see photo D). It's also important to leave the correct amount of overhang on each side. Refer to the detail drawing for this dimension.

When dry, glue and clamp splines in the end of parts B. Allow to dry, then use the clamp block technique to join parts A and parts B.

Once all the joints are dry, the glue block can be knocked off with a sharp blow with a hammer and chisel.

Next, a template is made in order to trace and trim the curved frame parts.

Transfer the various grid patterns to tracing paper, then draw in the curves. Now, use rubber cement to fasten the tracing paper to V* in. hardboard or plywood. The profiles of parts A, B, and C should be joined to form a template that goes full length. The template for parts D and E can be used for G and H. Be sure to extend the template 1% in. in each direction. Also, it's important to scribe a line to indicate the location of the joints.

Now, lay out the template and trace the curves on the frame parts (includ

Photo B — Clamp applies pressure to face of joint when splines are glued in place. Note damp pads are used to protect stock.

ing parts J), then use the band saw to cut out, taking care to stay about '/« in. on the waste side of the line. For part I, you'll first have to cut tenons out of the splines.

Once all parts are cut, you need a router table equipped with a Vs in. by 2Va in. laminate trimmer to trim the frame parts. Attach the template to the stock with double-faced tape, then run the stock through the trimmer with the ball bearing guide making contact with the template (see photo E).

Now, lay out the mortises on parts C, D, and H. Use a drill press equipped with a V* in, drill bit to remove most of the stock, then clean up with a chisel. Dry fit each mortise to its corresponding tenon.

All the frame parts can now be dry clamped together, including parts F. Fix the template in place for part F, then scribe the arc (see photo F). A band saw is then used to cut out Yx in. on the waste side of the scribe line. The laminate trimmer on the router table will clean up the excess.

waste side of the stock, then plane to the line with a block piane. You'li need to slightly round over the corners so

Photo C — Clamp blocks are temporarily glued to panel stock.

Splines are now added to part F. Once dry. part F must be fitted to parts G and E. Scribe a line across the face of parts G and E where the end of the joint lies. Set parts F in place then transfer the splines. Trim the splines to V% in. over length and pare with a chisel to insure a good fit.

Now that all pieces are cut and shaped they can be dry assembled and clamped. On the center frame the splines must be trimmed to fit flush to the inside of the frame.

Next, a router equipped with a bearing guided wing cutter is used to cut a ^lA in. wide by Vt in, deep groove all around the inside of the frames (see cross section).

Once all grooves are cut in the frame, cut two Vt in, thick panels (part L) to 23 in. wide by 96 in. long, and one panel (part K) which is set 18-7/16 in. wide by 96 in, long. Next, lay the panel on a flat surface, then place the frame on top of it and mark the inside profile of the frame. Remove the frame, then add 9/16 in. all the way around. Cut out on the band saw, slightly on the

Photo D — Clamp blocks are used to damp spline joints together. Later the clamp blocks will be removed.

they fit in the rounded corners of the groove.

Now, give the panels and the frame members a complete sanding before staining the project. We wanted ours to have a dark red (almost burgundy) color so we chose to use potassium dichromate as a stain. It's available from the company WoodFinishing Enterprises, Box 10117, Milwaukee, W1 53210. A four oz, package will cost 52.75. This is a poisonous chemical so use with care. Wear gloves when applying it. To get a feel for the color you'll want to experiment on some scrap pieces first. We applied two coats to get the tone we wanted.

Bring the panels to a final finish before gluing into the frames. We applied four coats of oil, rubbing out thoroughly in between .

Once the panels are finished they can be glued into the frames. We made up some angled clamp blocks in order to clamp parts 1 (see photo G).

To assemble, glue parts I and F to parts GH. Following this, install the panel and then glue part DE. Follow this procedure for all three assemblies.

Use a router with a Vt in. piloted cove bit to shape the edges of the frame stock as shown in the cross

Photo E — With template secured to the stock with double-face tape, router with a laminate trimmer is used to trim excess material.