Woodworker's Journal 1983-7-6, страница 50

Wine Rack

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Over the years we've seen a lot of interesting wine rack designs, but we think that this one is especially unique. With a tall, slender profile, it fits nicely in any location where space is at a premium.

We used Vi in. thick oak for all parts, an appropriate wood for a piece like this. Cherry, we think, would be another good choice.

Begin by cutting the two sides (parts A) to overall length and width. Referring to the drawing, lay out and mark the centerline location of the eight holes. The holes can be cut with either a 3'/j in, diameter hole saw, an adjustable circle cutter, or with the saber saw. The top edge is rounded with a band or saber saw.

The V% in, deep by 2 in. wide rabbet on each end of the sides is best cut using the dado-head cutter on the table or

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saw blade will also do the job.

Cut the two feet (parts B) 2 in. wide by 15 in. long, then lay out the location of the half-lap. Again, use the dado-head cutter to make the V* in. deep groove.

Use glue and clamps to join the feet to the sides, then cut the stretchers (parts C) to length and width.

To look best, this piece needs to have its edges well rounded. A router equipped with a piloted Vt in. rounding-over bit will make the job easy. Be sure to do all edges, including the inside of the holes and those on the stretchers.

Sand all surfaces, then assemble the stretcher to the sides with woodscrews, countersunk and plugged, as shown. Sand the plugs flush with the surface, then final finish with two coats of Watco penetrating oil. Allow to dry, t an rut* HAurn u; 11tl a cnfT rlf>1"h W\\ i