Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-1, страница 22
Restoring Antiques (Cont'd) one or more members of the piece may have to be cut and replacements made of new wood. In such a case, try to use the same species of wood, matching color and grain as best you can. In preparation for reassembly, all members should be carefully inspected for cuts, scratches and gouges. Splintered edges and shallow scratches can be minimized, if not entirely removed, by careful sanding. Only the very worst of these imperfections should be considered for inlaying new wood or fdling. At this same time, all mortises and the tenons that fit into them, round and squared, should be thoroughly cleaned right down to the bare wood. A primary consideration in any joint repair is cleanliness. A successful bond cannot be made unless all old glue, rags, string, wedges, paint, and other foreign material is completely removed. You'll have a strong joint if clean wood butts against clean wood, with only a layer of glue between. A bench mounted disk sander is a good power tool for cleaning tenons, spindle ends, and similar work. And of course, sandpaper, carving knives, and chisels will also do the job. But the quickest and easiest way to clean a joint is to use a small handgrinder such as the ones made by "Dremel" or "Handy". Using a V4 in. straight sided carbide burr bit, these grinders do an excellent job cleaning out mortises, dowel holes, rabbets, and other odd joints. Most well cleaned joints in old furniture will be too loose to be glued with ordinary glues. However, an epoxy formulated for gluing wood has excellent filling properties and will make a strong joint possible. This glue will handle clearances up to a quarter of an inch or so and still make a strong joint. If not available locally, this glue can be ordered from the company Gougeon Brothers, Inc., 706 Martin Street, Bay City, Ml 48706. Occasionally it becomes necessary to increase the viscosity of the epoxy so that it will stay in place. There are many commercial fillers on the market for this purpose but I find that wood dust from my belt sander does an excellent job and is most inexpensive. At times it may become necessary to use masking tape to hold the epoxy in place until it sets up. A word of warning: make sure that everything is in its correct position before leaving the epoxy to set up. Epoxy makes permanent joints. This material turns into a plastic that is harder and as strong (or stronger) than the wooden parts it is holding together. Epoxy does present a clean up problem. It is sticky, gooey stuff and seems to get into and all over everything. Before it sets up, epoxy is soluble in lacquer thinner so excess glue can be removed with rags wetted with this liquid. CAUTION: lacquer thinner is highly flammable and the fumes are toxic. Use lacquer thinner only in a well ventilated area, well away from any open flame or other possible igniter of its highly explosive fumes. Don't smoke while using lacquer thinner. For your personal protection and safety use rubber or plastic gloves, an aspirator designed to trap hydrocarbon fumes, and a face shield. I might add that the fumes from the hardener half of the epoxy are also highly toxic and should be treated with due respect. Wipe all surfaces several times with new rags and thinner each time. Any remaining epoxy that sets up on the surface will be very apparent under the final finish. Careful scraping and sanding will be necessary after the glue sets up to remove remaining traces before applying a final finish. Next issue we will continue with how to make major repairs using dutchmen and other inlays. \\wj SANBLADEGUARANTEED TO CUT SMOOTHER THAN ANY BLADE YOU'VE EVER OWNED OR YOUR MONEY BACK NEW... A blade that sands as it saws. No other blade cuts as smooth as a SANBLADE because no other blade is made like a SANBLADE. SANBLADE out-performs planer blades and yet you can rip with it in any wood — hard or soft. 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