Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-1, страница 34

Woodworker

over the assembly but do not tighten it. While holding the panel down flat with a straight-edge, proceed to tighten the bar clamp until slats are drawn up (Fig. 5).

Apply only enough pressure to close the gaps. The panels are only a bit more than V* in, thick so it doesn't take much clamp pressure to buckle them.

Once dry, trim the panels to a length and width that is Vt in. less than the frame rabbet dimensions. The panels are then rabbeted around the back edges. This rabbet should be Vt in. wide by half the panel thickness in depth; usually Vt to 3/16 in. The router can be used to cut the rabbet but it is not recommended where knots reach the edge of the panel. In this case it's better to use the table saw with a dado head and auxiliary wood fence.

Because the panel is Vt in. less in overall dimensions than the frame rabbet (to allow for expansion), you may want to widen the rabbet on the bottom edge of panels an additional Vt in. for appearance (Fig. 6).

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Give the panels a final sanding, breaking all sharp edges, and place the panels in their frames as soon as possible to prevent warping. Press the moldings into place and fasten with brads through the pre-drilled holes.

Paneled doors like these deserve pulls better than the metal or plastic stuff available at the local hardware store. Shaped pulls of matching or contrasting wood add a nice finishing touch. I cut mine from a strip of hardwood V* in, thick, Wi in. wide and 2Vi in. long for each pull (i.e. 5 in. for two pulls).

Bore holes ! Vt in. in diameter, 2Vi in. on center, and '/* in. from one edge of the strip (which will be the outside (continued on page 35)

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