Woodworker's Journal 1984-8-1, страница 57

Trestle Table & Benches

In the early days of our country, trestle tables were popular because they could easily be disassembled and moved out of the way when not in use — no smalt advantage in the one or two room homes commonly found back then. While that feature is not as important today, the trestle table remains a favorite Early American piece.

Those early trestle tables were often made of pine, so we used that wood for our own table. Oak is another good choice.

The two table legs (parts A) can be made first. Since you need 12 in. wide stock, you'll probably have to edge-join two or more narrower boards in order to get enough width. Be sure to allow a little extra stock for both the width and length. When edge-gluing, it's a good idea to add several dowel pins. Although they don't really add strength, they do help to keep the boards aligned when clamp pressure is applied.

The 1 in, thick by 11 in, wide by 1 Vi in. long tenon on each end of the leg can best be cut using the dado-head cutter, although repeated passes with a regular saw blade will also do the job.

The mortise for the stretcher (part F) measures 1 in. wide by 5 in. long. Use a sharp chisel to cut out. Work carefully to insure that the edges are square. Next, transfer the grid pattern to the stock and cut out the curved profile using a band or saber saw.

The feet (parts B) are made up of two pieces of IV* in. thick stock face glued together. When gluing, be sure to keep the bottom edges flush or else you'll need to joint that surface. The mortise for the leg tenon is best cut using a drill press to bore a series of 1 in. diameter holes. This will remove most of the material. Use a chisel to clean up what

remains.

You'll need a band saw to make the Vi in. deep cut-out on the bottom. If you don't have one, a local millwork shop may do it for you for a nominal charge.

Note that each foot tapers to 2 in. at the ends. Lay out the location of each of the tapers, then use a sharp hand plane to cut to shape.

The cleat (part C) is made next. Cut to length and width from 1³A in, thick stock, then lay out the location of the mortise. Cut out the mortise in the same way the foot mortise is cut out.

Each cleat has three grooves to accept the table top fasteners (parts I). If your local hardware store doesn't carry these fasteners, they can be purchased from The Woodworkers' Store, 21801 Industrial Blvd., Rogers, MN 55374.

The stretcher (part F) can now be cut to overall length and width from l³A in. stock. The tenon on each end is cut with the dado-head cutter or by making repeated passes with the regular saw blade. Referring to the detail, lay out and mark the location of the mortise for the peg (part G). Use a sharp chisel to cut out.

To make the peg (part G), cut 2 in. square stock to a length of about 8 in. Using a push stick, rip the piece to 1 Vi in., then lay out the taper as shown. Use a hand plane to cut the taper. Assemble the stretcher to the leg and install the peg. Use a mallet to tap it in place. Check the fit-up then trim any excess length on the table saw.

The top is made from 1³A in. stock. Edge-glue the stock using dowel pins to help keep the boards aligned. Clamp firmly and allow to dry overnight.

All parts can now be given a thorough sanding, finishing with 220 grit. Take particular care to smooth the edges of