Woodworker's Journal 1985-9-3, страница 17

Woodworker

Each of the three mirrors had a 1/16 in. thick plywood backing secured in place with small nails. However, all three pieces of plywood were delaminated, so it was necessary to remove and replace each one. When I installed these new backs, though, I chose to secure them with small (% in. by no. 6) screws rather than nails. Nails have to be banged in with a hammer, and I learned many years ago that old glass, especially old plate glass mirrors, becomes very brittle with age. To keep the wood from splitting when the screws were driven, I drilled a pilot hole for each one. By the way, when working with old mirrors, make sure that they are supported along their entire length before laying them flat. The frame will not necessarily provide enough support to keep the glass from breaking. Years ago, it cost me $40.00 to discover this little fact.

Stripping the Old Finish

With repairs complete, the frame was now stripped of the old Finish. I prefer the modern paint and varnish removers that allow clean-up with water. Strypeeze is a good one. 1 saturated the frame for about 45 minutes which made the finish soften readily. The gunk and goo were then easily removed with a stream of water and a rub down with coarse steel wool. This rinse should be done quickly so that the water does not have time to penetrate any laminates or joints. I allow plenty of time for drying — in this case about 24 hours.

Applying the New Finish

1 chose to stain the frame with Minwax's Colonial Maple Wood Finish. This stain not only colors the wood but also seals the surface to some degree. If you want a completely flat finish, the stained surface can simply be given a coat of wax once the stain is dry. However, I prefer a higher sheen, so I applied four coats of Benjamin Moore's Quick Dry Sanding Sealer. This finish can be brushed or sprayed on, although I've chosen the latter because it's easier to get a smooth even finish.

In order to spray on the Benjamin Moore finish, it must be thinned with mineral spirits. It also should be well mixed, as it has a filler that tends to settle at the bottom of the can. If it's too thin though, the finish comes out of the gun in spurts and tends to splatter the surface. I thin it just enough to get a full wet coat without the spatters.

A good spray finish requires a spraying technique that applies just the right amount of material. Too much will cause runs and sags. Three or four thin coats are better than one or two thick ones, And since Moore's finish dries so fast, three or four coats can be applied in one day.

This finish is also a joy to sand. I rub down between each coat with, at the very least, a 220 grit sandpaper. Before the last coat is applied, 600 grit is used. Between coats, 1 remove dust and powder with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. And after the mineral spirits have dried, a tack rag is used to remove any remaining particles. Using this procedure, I can always count on a satin smooth finish.

I let the mirror frame dry overnight and well into the next afternoon before rubbing it down with a carnauba based wax and 0000 steel wool. Moore's finish is hard, but brittle, and is easily cut by the steel wool. A minimum of pressure results in a satin smooth surface with a minimum of work — just be careful not to go through the finish. A final rub down with a clean soft cloth will bring out a lovely sheen.

For information write TUflNING POINT, INC, • BOX 9303D * VILLAGE WEST * FARGO, ND 58109 701-646-2319

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