Woodworker's Journal 1985-9-3, страница 20

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The Beginning Woodworker (cont'd.)

If the door panel is made of one wide or several narrow boards, there will still be a fair amount of swelling and shrinking across the grain. However, if we set the panel into grooves in the frame, and these grooves are deep enough to contain the panel through the extremes of dimensional changes, we will have effectively solved the problem of sticking doors or unsightly gaps bewteen members. Admittedly, there is considerably more work involved, but the end result is well worth it.

the grooves cut to hold the panel edges should be deep enough to hold the panel securely during its shrinkage phase while still allowing room for expansion. Fig. 6 shows a panel with a raised center which is beveled or tongued along its edges to fit about V* in. deep into Vs in. grooves in the framing members. The extra depth of the grooves wui allow tne panel to expand V* in. Very wide panels may expand considerably more, in which case the grooves should be sized deeper to contain them.

The panel should never be glued into the grooves as this will restrain its movement. Rather, it should be allowed to "float" free. Again, the use of a plywood panel, if compatible with the design, will eliminate movement problems.

Cleats or stiffeners fastened across one or more boards should never be glued but fastened instead by slot screwing as shown in Fig. 7A. Note that the holes in the cleats are elongated so that the shanks of the screws can slide in the slot as the glued-up slab expands or contracts. Another more elegant method is to use a router to cut a dovetailed groove across the slab to take a matching cleat (Fig. 7B). One centering screw can then be placed in the cleat after it has been inserted into the groove.

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A one foot wide panel of solid wood can easily expand 'A inch. Therefore,

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