Woodworker's Journal 1985-9-6, страница 46

the centerline of each hole, ihcn bore them out. On the other end of the hack cleat, at the center of the 2^JA in- radius, bore a % in. dia. through hole.

Next, at the centerpoint of ihe 27* in. radius in the supporl cleat, use the drill press to bore a 7- in. diameler by ' 7if> in. hole for lite threaded insert. Once bored, thread ihe inserts in place. A thin coal of paste wax added lo the outside Ihreads of ihe inserts w ill help them go in easier.

Make the Knobs

To make each knob, use the compass to scribe a l V> in. dia. circle on a piece of I in. thick stock that's at leasi 2 in. square. At the center of the circle, bore a ^l/z in. dia. by '7«> in. deep hole for the Ihreaded insert and a 7* in. dia. through hole for the knob machine screw (1). Thread the insert into ihe hole.

Next, mark ihe centerline location of the four 7* in. radius cutouts, then use a 72 in. dia. drill bit to bore each one. Now. io complete the handle (Hi. use the band saw to cut the scribed lV» in. dia. circle. Stay just on the waste side of the line, then sand ihe edges smooth. A disk sander will once again come in handy here. Add the machine screws to complete work on the knobs,

Sand the Parts

Give all ihe parts a thorough sanding, finishing w ith 220-grit sandpaper. When sanding, round all the corners and sharp edges lo about a 7* in. radius.

Assembly

We used I 7? in. by no. 8 flalhead wood screw s io join the seal front and 13 slats to ihe deals. A total of 56 screws are required. For each screw you need lo

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bore a pilot hole in the cleat. Also, you need lo bore a shank hole and countersink in ihe seat front and slats. If you have one, a countersinking drill bit will make ihings much easier. These one-piece bils will drill the pilot hole, shank hole and countersink in one operation. If not available at your local hardware store, they can be ordered from most woodworking mail-order outfits.

Begin assembly by joining the seal front to the two seat cleats. Note that the seal front extends in. above the front edge of the seat cleats. Also, as shown in the from view, the cleats are inset 6 in.

Bill of Materials

(all dimensions actual)

No.

No.

Mattress Source

The queen sin (60 in. iiy 80 in) sectional Futon mattress we used is available from The Company Store. 500 Company Store Road. Ls Crosse. Wl 54601-4477; tel. 1-800-323-8000 The mattress fabric is 100 percent cotton twill (Scotch Guarded), the till is 95 percent whole while European feathers and 5 percent European down. Order style no. F490-S3? (specify tan stripe or blue stripe). The current price is $340 plus $30 shipping and handling.

Should you preler a pattern othei than Ihe tan or blue stripe The Company Store also carries mattress covers in several prints and solid colors- Write or call them (or more inlormalion.

from the ends of the seat front.

Now. add ihe first slai. To create a tight fit at the seat front, we used the table saw to cut a 3 degree bevel along the from edge of this slat only. (The remaining slais don'i require any beveling. I Alter the first slat is beveled, bull ii up against the seat front, then use the countersink drill bit to bore a pair of screw holes through the slat and inio the cleat. With the holes bored on each end. secure the slat to the cleat with the flalhead wood screws. We chose not lo use any glue here, since the screws provide more lhan enough strenglh.

Now, rip a 58 in. length of scrap stock to 27-i in. wide. This "spacer board" will be used lo establish the 2ⁱM in. spacing between ihe remaining slais.

Bull the spacer board against the first slat, then butt ihe second slat against the spacer board. Make sure ihe ends are flush. You may want to use a bar clamp to hold everything in place. Once all looks okay, bore ihe holes on each end and add ihe screws. Use this same basic procedure to assemble all the remaining slats lo the seat cleats.

Next, the slais are added lo the back deals. Begin by attaching the first slat al a point 47s in. from the cleat botlom ends (see Side View). Before going any further, use the pivol screws io temporarily join the back cleats to the seal cleats, then pivot the pans from the bed position to the sofa position. The lirsi back slat should just clear the last seal slat, but if it doesn'l. use a hand plane to apply a slight chamfer to the slats, or readjust the slat spacing a bit.

Now, remove the pivot screws and assemble the remaining slats to both the back cleats and the support cleats.

Finishing

Al this point, give ihe project one last going over with 220- grit sandpaper. To remove the dusi you should ihoroughly vacuum all the surfaces, then use a tack rag lo pick up what remains. For a finish, we used two coats of a clear water-based polyurethane varnish.

Once the finish dries, assemble the seat, back and support sections with the pivot screws and knobs. The maitress simply lies flat when the Futon is used as a bed. When it's converted to a sofa, the mattress is folded under in the front as shown in the photo.

The Woodworker'?. Journal