Woodworker's Journal 1994-18-1, страница 26

Woodworker

iii The Shop

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handed) on ihe tool rest of the grinder-Lay ihe tool on your fingers and use your thumb lo steady it. Use extreme care here to avoid touching j our lingers to the wheel. Then, with your right hand, grasp the handle of the tool. Position the tool so that the heel of ihe bevel comes in contact w ith ihe grinding wheel first. As ihe series of photos shows, first touch the bevel to the w heel, then start pushing the tool higher on the w heel as you continue to rotate it. This will remove the ears and bring Ihe bevel around the sides. For a steeper bev el on the sides, you may also swing the handle to the right and left. The Fig. 2 illustration shows how ihe bowl gouge looks initially, with a dotted line indicating how the shape will be miHlilied.

Fltt. 3

Sharpening large dome scraper on Hatdar grinder with flat on toolrest.

Scrapers

Scrapers come in an infinite variety of shapes. Many are ground to meet specific needs. They are usually fairly heavy in proportion to other tools anil have a rather short bevel. There are really only two shapes I use on a regular basis. These are a in. square nose, and a full dome about 2 in. across. To sharpen the square nose, set the tool rest at about 30 degrees. Lay the tool flat on the resi and move il smoothly across the wheel using very light pressure. For the dome shape, use ihe same setup and technique, but sw ing the tool handle from side-lo-sidc. creating a fully rounded dome (see photo). This technique will develop a burr or wire edge < Fig. 3) on ihe tool, but don't attempt to remove this burr. The burr is the cutting edge when the scraper is in use.

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(left to right): I'/-l in. oval skew with long bevel: Richard Raffan skew.

Using oil stone to sharpen skew.

Skews

Just as w iih all the other tools, everyone has their own way of sharpening the skew. Australian woodturner. Richard Raffan, uses a unique skew wilh 3 curved cutting edge (see photo). It is ground to about 30 degrees on each side.

I prefer an oval skew with a much longer bevel, about 20 degrees on each side. Rather than using a grinder. I use an oilstone to shape and sharpen my skew (see photo). This creates a Hal bevel.

Sources

American Association of Woodturners

667 Harriet Ave. Shoreview, MN 55126 tel. (612)484-9094 General turning information

Craft Supplies USA

1287 E. 1120 S. Provo, UT 84601 tel. (801) 373-0917 Turning supplies

Jerry Glaser

Glaser Engineering Co,, Inc. P.O. Box 95

El Segundo, CA 90245-0095 tel. (310) 823-7128 Giaser jig

Packard Woodworks

P.O. Box 718 Tryon, NC 28782 tel. (704) 859-6762

which I prefer over a hollow grind. I stan wilh a coarse stone, follow with a medium, and then finish with a fine India stone. The stones slay submerged in oil when not in use lo keep them from clogging up with metal filings. The skew is the only tool I sharpen with stones. All ihe others go directly from ihe grinder to ihe lathe. I do not use a slipsione or burnish any ol the other tools.

Overview

The sharpening system that I have detailed here is ihe culmination of my many years at the lathe. It's not something you learn overnight but. once mastered. it will make your turning a lot more enjoyable and productive. Once you are thoroughly comfortable and confident in both your turning and sharpening skills, working at the lathe becomes very much like a we 11-choreographed dance, where you'll swing alternately back and forth between the grinder and laihe, always maintaining an edge on your culling tools sharp enough to effortlessly peel siiKiodi shavings from y our stock GixxJ luck and happy turning. ED

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