Woodworker's Journal 1994-18-6, страница 50
Joint Detail Apply finish to the door, case, tray, base, and arm. (We used several coats of Minwax Antique Oil, then applied a coat of Minwax Paste Wax, which we rubbed out with a soft cotton cloth.) While the finish dries, make 28 liner hooks and 12 arm hooks, using the profiles shown on the Exploded View. If you purchased the hardware kit. use the hooks supplied. As you'll note on the drawing, the liner hooks have an additional bend in them. Use 1" or longer brass brads, and use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to bend them. To secure the hooks to the liners, drill a small hole through the liner for each hook. Insert the hooks, then apply a drop ofepoxy to the back of each to anchor it to the hack of the cardboard liner. (We attached three rows of hooks to the door, positioning them 'A", 4", and 7" down from the top, respectively. In each row, we started Vj" in from the edge and spaced the hooks at V" intervals. We mounted a single row of sev en hooks on the back.) To mount the arm hooks, drill '/»" holes Vi»" deep into both sides of the arm where shown. Insert the hooks, then apply a drop of clear epoxy to anchor each hook in place. Using a sparing amount of epoxy, mount the cardboard liners to the back case. Adjust the pieces if necessary, then glue, assemble, and clamp the tray. Now, set it aside to dry. Step 10: Cut the cardboard-and-felt liners to fit the three lined areas. (Note: Don't adhere the liners yet; wait until after you've applied the finish.) Bill uses a laminated readv-to-cut. felt-ovcr-card-board product, but you can buy felt or velvet material and wrap it over stiff cardboard. Make the liners for the door and case the same size, and cut a smaller section to fit the tray bottom. (You'll glue this smaller piece directly to the case bottom after gluing the tray in place.) The Necessary Hardware and Finishing You'll find mounting the hardware fairly straightforward although you'll need to follow a certain sequence. Start by scribing and mortising the case edge for the hinges. Pre-drill pilot holes for the hinge screws, but don't attach the hinges just yet. Next, dnll the "A" hole for the magnetic catch where shown, then drill the shank hole in the door for the screw that opposes the catch. Insert the catch until flush with the edge. Countersink the screw hole, then drive the catch screw until it's flush with the door edge. and the inside of the door. Locate and drill a */«" shank hole in the case bottom for the mounting screw to anchor the base to the case. Apply epoxy to the case bottom, then position the base and temporarily clamp it in place. Drill a Vn pilot hole into the base, and then drive the #6x1" wood screw. Next, glue the tray in place. Now. fit the cardboard liner in the tray bottom, and glue it in place. Attach the arm to the case with a brass screw and washer as shown on the Exploded View drawing. Leave the screw loose enough to allow the arm to swing freely. Next, loosely attach the hinges to the door and then to the case. Adjust the position of the door, then tighten the hinge screws. Adjust the catch-screw depth to control the magnetic pull on the door. Finally, add felt dots (av ailable at any hardware or crafts store) to the base bottom before you gift-wrap your armoire. Kit Source In case you should have trouble finding Ihe hardware for this project, we've asked Bolstad Woodworks to supply a kit thai includes all necessary parts. Order the kit from. BOLSTAD WOODWORKS, INC. P.O. Box 971 Salem, OR 97308 Telephone 800/628-8945 Includes hinges, magnetic catch, brass hooks, washer, and all screws. $20.00 ppd. You may also order a kil including all of the wood and laminated velvet-on-cardboard liners as well as the necessary hardware. Call for price and available wood combinations. Project Design: Bill Bolstad Photograph: Gerard Roy Illustrations: Dan Thornton 50 Novemher/December 1994 Wixxiworkcr's Journal |
