Woodworker's Journal 2008-32-1, страница 25

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workout, the major benefits of this method are speed and control to prevent the softening of surface edges.

Because my polish is beeswax, I usually start with 320-grit sandpaper and go to 400. See the "How Smooth is Smooth?" sidebar on the next page.

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Clear shellac serves as a barrier to prevent the beeswax from soaking into the wood. Without shellac, you would need four or five coats of wax to get the desired body and luster.

Shellac is best applied with a clean, lint-free cloth, preferably old cotton. The procedure is called "ragging on." With the rag formed into a pad, spread the shellac in circles quickly and thinly to wet the entire surface at once, then lay it off by wiping in the direction of the grain. Don't apply a second coat: it will dissolve the first coat and make a sticky mess. You could also brush it on.

Because application by brush leaves a heavy deposit and shellac dries too quickly for continuous brushing, a particular technique is required. Start with a loaded brush and cover the surface quickly, then wipe it off with a dry rag. The result is about the same as ragging on.

The shellac will be touch-dry in about five minutes, but the surface will have been roughed by swollen fibers called "nibs." When the shellac has dried to the

The surface will feel rough after the shellac dries because of swollen fibers called "nibs." Remove them with very fine worn paper held in your fingers to prevent spot buildup. This is called "denibbing."

shaving with some gaps across it. The fourth pass removes a complete end-to-end shaving. The result is a smooth surface.

This surface has several desirable characteristics besides smoothness. First, the fibers are cleanly severed, not torn or abraded. Second, the surface retains its geometry: it's flat in length, flat in width, and square to its faces. Third, the very small amount of material removed has not altered the critical dimensions of the workpiece. A smoothing plane is the only tool capable of delivering all these characteristics.

Abrasives: There are situations where a surface is improved by sanding. For example, a small tearout caused by abnormal growth many years earlier in the life of the tree or an area, usually around a pin knot, where the grain goes the opposite way to the rest of the board.

I sand by muscle power using a cork block. Divide the sheet of abrasive paper into six pieces and size the block to permit thumb and finger grip. Other than the cardiac

Years ago, you had no choice but to make your own shellac. Today, the ready-made product does the job, but keep an eye on shelf life. It's widely available in clear, white and orange varieties.

Rag the shellac quickly. Cover the whole surface, then "lay it off" altogether. Don't do bits at a time. Because you are following with beeswax, a second coat is neither necessary nor desirable.

To get inside shaped parts, which is a critical step to a proper finish, fold the paper to make a sharp, supported corner.

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February 2008 Woodworker's Journal