Woodworker's Journal 2010-34-2, страница 28
struction details) and then have a spline groove cut into the mating edges. (The splines will help a great deal when you align the post parts during glue-up.) All of this is done on the table saw. (See the photos on the previous page.) Once you have the spline grooves cut, go ahead and cut the splines (pieces 7) and lit them to the spline grooves. The post parts also have stopped grooves plowed, top and bottom — see the Drawings for details — that are 1/4" wide and 3/8" deep. I formed these oil my router table with a 1/4" straight bit. Mortise and Tenons The next step to consider is machining the various mortises and tenons on the stiles and rails and post parts. It is my habit to form the mortises first, so that 1 can fit the tenons to match them. First, I carefully marked where each mortise was to be cut. My technique is lo clamp the stock that 1 w ill be machining between two pieces of wood in my bench vise. In this case, 1 used a plunge router w ith a 1/4" straight bit chucked into the collet. After setting the cutting depth on the router (1 like the depth to be slightly greater than the length of the tenons), 1 use an edge guide attachment to locate the placement of the mortise. (See the top photo, left.) I highly recommend testing your setup on scrap material. When you are pleased with your setup, go ahead and form the mortises. 1 square up my mortises with a sharp bench chisel. To help form the tenons on the ends of the straight stiles, I made a simple little jig that slides over the fence on my table saw. It is made from MDF and is sort of H-shaped (center photo, left). The upright The author forms the mortise and tenons by using a plunge router with an edge guide attachment Itop photo). The tenons are then raised by using a shop-made tenoning jig (middle photo). The tenon shoulders are formed using the miter gauge with a small auxiliary fence attached (bottom photo). 30 April 2010 Woodworkers Jourruil |
