Popular Woodworking 2003-11 № 137, страница 50
WOODWORKING ESSENTIALSBY NICK ENGLER CHAPTER 2 Plunge Router w: hile a fixed-base router is a very versatile tool, there are still some operations that require different abilities. This is where a plunge router proves valuable. For example, some operations require you to rout the interior of a board without cutting in from the edge. When you rout a mortise, it's best to first make a small hole in the interior of the work-piece, then enlarge it. To make this starter hole, you must lower - or "plunge" - the bit into the wood. While you don't need a plunge router to do this (woodworkers have been plunging with standard routers for years), it does make the operation safer and can be accomplished with greater precision. The main difference between plunge and fixed-base routers (which were discussed in Chapter One of this series) is that plunge routers can make interior and stopped cuts much more easily. The plunge-base motor is mounted on two spring-loaded posts above the base, which let you position the motor above the work, then lower the bit straight down into the wood and begin cutting. PRO TIP: How Much is Enough? To make sure the collet is safely gripping a router bit, insert 3/4" of the length of a 1/4" shank bit into the collet and insert a full 1" of every V2" shank bit. Similar to fixed-base routers, plunge-base routers are available in multiple sizes and power. Most will accept both 1/2" and 1/4" collets. Choosing the Right Size For Your First Router Plunge routers are available in two main sizes: either a 2-horsepower (or slightly less) or a 3-hp (or slightly more) model. Most larger plunge routers have found happy homes in router tables (we will discuss router tables in Chapter Three), and that's where they belong. They're honestly too large for convenient handheld routing operations. They can be used this way, but the smaller plunge router is more likely the better choice for hand-held routing. The smaller plunge routers are easier |
