Popular Woodworking 2006-02 № 153, страница 57

Whether squaring the face frame for your cabinet or the cabinet itself, this is the best way to do it. Using either a tape measure or a wooden folding rule, measure from corner to corner in both diagonal directions. The difference between the two measurements will show you how out of square your piece is. By running a clamp across the piece with the longer diagonal measurement, you can pull up half the difference between the two measurments and make a square frame or cabinet.

nal dimensions are the same, then nail the back in place. Simple.

Adding Backs

Not every case piece has to have a back. But if it does, the most common way to fit the back into the case is by using a rabbet joint on the case sides, top and bottom (although the top and bottom are optional). This hides the back from view and offers an easy reference edge to square up the case.

The rabbet joint also offers the flexibility of using different thicknesses of back. If your case piece is a smaller size and will rest on the floor, a V4"-thick back is adequate. If your case is larger, or will be hung on the wall (often through the back itself) a ¹/2"- or ³/4"-thick back will be preferable. The back rabbet can be easily adjusted to accommodate any of these back sizes.

Another advantage to a rabbeted back is the ability to temporarily attach the back during construction, but remove it for easier finishing. If a captured back (fit into grooves in the case pieces) were used, it would need to be permanently installed during construction of the case.

The rabbet in the case pieces can be created prior to assembling the case

using the table saw or a router. This can require some pre-planning to avoid running a through-rabbet in a side that might leave a gap where the case pieces meet. Another option is to assemble the case and then run the rabbet on the case using a rabbeting router bit, although this can be a balancing act and creates a small amount of work after the rabbet is finished (see photo below).

The back itself can be plywood or solid wood. The advantage of plywood

is not having to concern yourself with the movement inherent to solid wood. While a stable material, plywood won't look as natural as a solid-wood back - no matter how good the veneer face is. Solid-wood backs look good and the necessary "planking" of the boards to accommodate wood movement can add a pleasing visual element to an otherwise plain expanse of wood grain.

When working with solid backs, there are details to remember in constructing

A rabbet run on the inside edge of the case pieces is a common way to hide a case back. These rabbets can be created during the initial milling of the case pieces, or created with a bearing-guided rabbeting bit in a router after assembly. When using a rabbeting bit, the last step is to come back with a sharp chisel and square out the corners.

Popular Woodworking