Popular Woodworking 2007-11 № 165, страница 68

Popular Woodworking 2007-11 № 165, страница 68

point determine the true length of the shelf and size of its notch. On paper this should be 32%". To find the actual length, dry assemble the leg, apron and rail pieces.

The distance between the shelf rails is the true length of the shelf. The length on paper between the notched shoulders of the shelf is 31%" but the actual dimension is the distance between the legs, which should be the same as the length of the drawer rails. To double-check the measurements, cut scrap wood for a test-fit of each of the dimensions.

Square the shelf then cut it to final length. Save the offcut, which should be about 2" long. Rout a V4" x V2" spline cut centered in each end of the shelf. Rout the same spline cut in a short piece of the offcut and cut the notch as seen in the drawing using the dimension from the dry-fit for the distance between the shoulders of the notches.

Next, determine the exact location of the notch in the leg. Dry assemble the left and right sides of the piece. Using the offcut from the shelf and some cross-grain spline material, mark for the notch in the leg as shown in the photo. To ensure that the location of the notch is consistent, make a spacer to register the shelf rail 6V2" from the bottom of the leg. Lay out the remaining lines of the notch according to the drawing.

A simple routing jig produces the notch in the leg. This works by capturing the router base between blocks on either side and limiting the length of cut with another block. This allows the exact location of the router's cut to be visually determined.

Using a plunge router with a V2" upcut

Two ways to deal with movement.

Both the shelf and the leg are notched to help conceal seasonal wood movement.

There's a reason for that. The wider pegs at the outer ends of the shelf rail conceal slots for screws. Under the smaller pegs in the middle, the screws are in holes.

spiral bit, make a test cut with scrap material. Through trial and error determine the correct location (%" long rout in leg) for the rear stop block of your jig. Make another test cut to determine the exact depth of cut.

Using the actual leg, make an initial cut centered between the pencil lines and about half the final depth. Make a second cut at full depth. Move the template right and left to creep up on the pencil lines to the desired width. Test the cut with the shelf offcut piece Once the correct cut is made, square the corners with a sharp chisel.

Next, fit the spline material in the shelf ends. Leave a gap in the spline wherever a screw will pass. Glue the spline in all the way across the shelf (it will only be glued in the center 4" of the shelf rail). Be cautious of glue squeeze-out around the spline - if hardened it will obstruct a tight fit with the shelf rail

First Subassembly

I like breaking a project down into small and manageable subassemblies. In this case I first assemble the two sets of front legs to the upper

and lower drawer rails and drawer side posts. Before any gluing takes place, all parts are sanded to #220 grit. I like to use a flat torsion box wrapped in butcher paper as a gluing surface to keep everything positively flat.

The floating tenons are already in the drawer rails. If the mortising went as planned, the tenons have about 1/l6" of up and down movement in the legs, allowing for precise positioning. Line up the upper drawer rail even with the top of the leg. The drawer posts will position the lower drawer rails. Take the time to dry fit and adjust the parts if necessary. When everything is lined up, go ahead with the subassembly.

The dust panel is another case where the size on paper is not necessarily the actual size needed. The width and the length depend on the sizes of parts already made. The listed size will produce a dust panel V2" too large in both directions. This lets the panel grow if necessary and allows squaring after assembly.

The dust panel's overall width should match the length of the end aprons, which on paper is 21" - defer to the actual length.To

A scrap and a spacer. The exact location of the notch in the leg is marked Another jig. This jig traps the router base and provides a way to align the from the rail using an offcut from the shelf. bit with the layout line.

66 ■ Popular Woodworking November 2007