Woodworker's Journal 1994-18-1, страница 22

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Woodworking Basics

Continued

hard against the end of the mortise. (A frame of well-cut dovetail hridle joints may not require any more clamps than one made of standard mortise-and-tenons. i Cutting both mortise and tenon by hand with a hacksaw and chisels is straightforward, though not necessarily easy: you can also jig up a table saw or band saw to do the job.

The mitered bridle (C) is an excellent choice for mitered frames requiring strong corner joints—cabinet doors, large picture frames and so on. You can band saw the mortise as described earlier in the article, but you'll need to cut the tenon and the miters by hand or on the table saw or radial-arm saw. Like most miters, this joint can be a bit fussy to glue up—you'll probably need three

clamps at all comers, as described for the basic corner hridle. If you want to get real fancy, dovetail the mortise and tenon and eliminate a clamp or two.

The dovetail "T" (D) shouldn't require a clamp across the cheeks, but it can be frustrating to cut and fit. Don't make the dovetail angles too sharp or you'll get a troublesome feather edge on the shoulders cut in the stile.

I think the four-way bridle joint (E) looks much nicer than both the half-lap and stub niortise-and-tenon alternatives. You can cut the mortises on the stiles with a band saw. The rail "tenon" can be chiseled into shape or. with a little jigging you can clear most of the waste w ith a router, then chisel to form the angled shoulders.

.">8 The Woodworker's Journal