Woodworker's Journal 2008-32-4, страница 30
Mounting and Shaping the Blanks Finishing the Turnings Assembling the Pen Parts Slip the blanks onto the threaded mandrel, and separate them with a bushing. Install the other two bushings on the opposite ends of the blanks. These bushings are the same diameter as the pen parts, so they'll serve as guides for arriving at the final diameter of your turning. Lock the blanks and bushings onto the mandrel using the threaded nut supplied with the mandrel. Chuck the mandrel between your lathe centers, and you're ready for turning. Before applying finish, clean off the bushings with denatured alcohol. This removes the gray dust that may have accumulated while sanding. The dust can stain your pen blank during finishing. Now, apply your finish. Use a small piece of folded paper towel, wetted with finish and held against the back of the turning. Any finish, from furniture oil to shellac or lacquer, will work on pens. The author prefers to use lacquer turner's finish, known as padding lacquer. It dries almost instantly so you can move right into assembly. Avoid using cloth applicators: a paper towel will tear if it catches on anything spinning — a good safety feature. A rag could pull your fingers into the turning. Work in a well-ventilated area and wear eye protection when applying finish. Assemble your pen parts in this order: pen tip first, pocket clip second and then the pen twist mechanism (see Photo 1). Insert the twist mechanism until the indented ring on it is nearly even with the end of the barrel, then test the fit of the ink cartridge. The pen tip should come out far enough to write, while still retracting fully back into the pen when the mechanism is twisted closed. If the pen tip doesn't come out far enough, remove the ink cartridge and press the twist mechanism a little farther into the brass barrel. Now add the center ring (see Photo 2), which simply slips on, and press the top and bottom halves of the pen together (see Photo 3). Turn the blanks by making light passes with a sharp gouge. The author recommends using a 3/8" spindle gouge. Start at 1,200 rpm and ramp up to 2,200 rpm as the blanks become round. Turn the ends of the blanks to match the diameter of the bushings. Leave the middle of each blank fatter than the ends, at least on your first pen or two. If you cut too aggressively, or your gouge is dull, it's possible to go through the wood and expose the brass barrel. There isn't much you can do at that point except save the remaining good blank and start over. Don't cut into the bushings; if you reduce their diameter, you won't have accurate guides for the pen blanks. Sand the pen. With your first couple of pens, there's no shame in sanding the blank to its finished diameter instead of turning it. This more conservative approach will guarantee you don't cut through the wood. Start with 150-grit sandpaper to remove gouge marks. Progress to 220- and then 400-grit paper. SOURCES Craft Supplies • 800-551-8876 www. woodturnerscatatog. com eBay Penn State • 800-377-7297 www.pennstateind.com Rockier • 800-279-4441 www.rockler.com 42 Subscribe now at www.woodworkersjournal.com/digitaledition August 2008 Woodworker's Journal |
