Woodworker's Journal 2011-35-1, страница 36

Woodworker

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Back Slat Assembly

(Top View)

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After test-fitting all the parts, I glued and clamped the side subassemblies to the base, then glued the top frame in place. I also used screws to help secure the frame to the side subassemblies. It is important to square up the bookcase at this step.

I measured the inside dimensions of the case and carefully cut the shelf to size, allowing for the thickness of the shelf front. I also sliced a narrow groove in each end of the shelf, to accommodate the hidden shelf support pins. (See the Drawing below for more details.) When that was done, 1 cut the shelf stiffener to size and glued and clamped it to the shell, setting the assembly aside until the glue cured.

A Veneered Accent Strip

One detail that gives this bookcase a truly "classic" feel is the burl veneer glued to the upper stretcher that runs across the front of the piece. If you are thinking of building this piece but are uncomfortable with the practice of veneering, you could always skip this step and use a really attractive piece of solid walnut. But this sort of veneer work is not hard, and it might just help you lo become more comfortable with this truly handy technique.

1 cut the upper stretcher to size from a piece of solid walnut and milled it about 1/16" under 1/2" thick to accommodate the added thickness of the front and back

Top Side Rail

(Front and End Views)

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(Top and Front Views)

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Trim Molding

(End View)

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Base Molding

(End View)

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(Front View)

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Before clamping tbe frame and panels, the author made a block with a tenon on it to Till the mortises and prevent the clamps from breaking the stile.

36 February 2011 Woodworker's Journal

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