50 - Table Saw Workstation, страница 23
FEATURE PROJECT Drawers All that's left to complete the cabinets is to add a set of four drawers. To provide easy access to tools and supplies, each drawer is mounted on a metal slide, see Fig. 10. The drawer slides I used required a lh" clearance on each side. So I built 16"-wide drawers (1" less than the width of the opening). As for length, they match the length of the slides (18"). Another consideration is the height of the drawer. I made the shallow drawer 3" tall. And to simplify construction, all three deep drawers are the same height (7y2"). Note: The drawer that fits in the largest opening (the lower opening in the end cabinet) will get a larger false front. DRAWER CONSTRUCTION. Hie drawer front/back (DD, FF) pieces and sides (EE, GG) are made of V2"-thick hardwood, see Fig. 11. After cutting the pieces to size, the fronts and backs are rabbeted at each end to form a tongue, see Fig. lib. This tongue fits into a dado in each side. Before gluing up the drawers, you'll need to cut a groove in each piece to accept a V411 hardboard bottom (HH), see Fig. 11a. Ifs also a good idea to drill countersunk shank holes in the drawer fronts now to make it easy to add the false fronts later. DRAWER SLIDES. At this point, you're ready to install the drawer slides. The slides are designed to be separated into two parts. One part is attached to the drawer side. The other is mounted to a hardwood spacer (II) that's screwed to the cabinet sides, see Fig. 10a. Hie spacers "build out" the side of the cabinet so ifs flush with the face frame. FALSE FRONTS. All that's left to complete the drawers is to add the false fronts (Jf, KK, LL). These are pieces of 'W plywood trimmed with 1/2"-thick hardwood edging (MM). The goal is to size the false fronts so that once the edging is glued on, they overlap the drawer opening a V411 all the way around, see Fig. 11a. After screwing the false fronts in place, I added a pull to each drawer. No. 50 ShopNotes 23 |
