88, страница 26
All it takes is one router table setup
one for the tenons — which can be time-consuming. To streamline the process, I rout an identical mortise in each mating piece. The parts are then joined with a "floating" tenon. This means you only have one setup for making the mortises.
With an idea of how the joint works, you're ready to get set up and start routing. All you'll need is a regular
When I'm building large frame and panel assemblies or doors, I turn to traditional mortise and tenon joinery for long-lasting strength. But for smaller work, I like to use a modified mortise and tenon joint. Most of the work is done at the router table. And, best of all, this joint provides a lot of strength and is quick to make.
In a traditional mortise and tenon joint, you need one setup to make the mortises and a different
straight bit. And for 3/4"-thick stock, a V4"-dia. bit is just the right size.
Setting Up. Figure 1 gives you a good overview of the router table
round over one edge and end of tenon for a snug fit
mortise depth equals bit height
CHAMFER STOP BLOCKFOR -_ DUST RELIEF
mortises in rails and stiles are identical
SET BIT TO MAXIMUM CUTTING HEIGHT
NOTCH SPACERS TO WRAP AROUND BIT
SPACERS MAKE ROUTING IN SEVERAL PASSES A SNAP
LENGTH OF MORTISE MATCHES DEPTH
GROOVES FOR PANEL AFTER MAKING MORTISES
REMOVE SPACERS TO INCREASE v CUTTING DEPTH
FINAL PASS MADE WITH NO SPACERS
J ShopNotes No. 88