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CENTER DOVETAIL HOOK TO TOP OF SAW BASE
Me" CABLE CLAMP
#8*V Fh WOODSCREW
#S xlVfe" Rh -WOODSCREW
1/4" X 3/4" HEX BOLT & NUT
W / patio door roller
Getting the panel saw ready for action is just a matter of adding a few details. These will make the saw easier to control and more accurate.
Supporting the Saw. With the saw in place on the base, it can be a bit heavy during use. To lighten the load so it's easier to use, I made a "suspension system," as you can see in the photos at right.
It's basically a spring and pulley setup that acts like an old-fash-ioned window weight to balance the weight of the saw. This way, the saw will be easier to manage as you make a crosscut.
To hold the springs in place, I used a left over piece of T-track. You can make "hooks" for the springs in the T-track with a hack saw and file, as you can see in the lower photo at right and Figure 9a. To connect the
The cable is attached to the saw base with a hook made from a piece of aluminum angle.
L-BRACKET MADE FROM T'-LONG PIECE OF 1V2"-WIDE ALUMINUM STRIP (SEE FIGURE 6a)
NOTE: size cable
so springs are stretched by 12" when saw is at top of guide
► Counterbalance. A simple system of pulleys and springs carries the weight of the saw making cuts almost effortless.
springs to the saw base, I used a system of pulleys, brackets, and a strong, braided cable.
Pulleys. But before cutting the cable to length, it's a good idea to position the hardware so you can get the saw balanced just right. The first thing I did was locate the anchor point for the cable on the saw guide. Directly above this
y4" x 2"
NOTE: ATTACH ROLLERS AND BRACKETS BEFORE CUTTING CABLE TO LENGTH
9Ae" x 16V2" EXTENSION -SPRING
HOOK MADE FROM V/z" x 1V2" - V/z" LONG ALUMINUM ANGLE
point, I mounted a pulley that redirects the cable after it comes up from the springs. This pulley is a patio door roller that is attached to the saw guide with a lag screw.
Another patio door roller is mounted to an aluminum L-bracket
24 ShopNotes No. 88