Woodworker's Journal 1994-18-1, страница 61

milering one end lo 45 degrees, then measure the length across Ihe case and cut the second miler to fit. Add glue to the front edge of the filler and secure (he front molding with a half-dozen or so old-fashioned nails. As mentioned earlier. if finishing nails are used instead.

you'll want to countersink them and fill the holes. Be careful to avoid getting glue on the underside of top—you'll need to remove the lop later on.

Next, add the end moldings, first mi-tering the front ends, then cutting the back ends square to the back of the case.

Since the sides must he able to expand and contract with seasonal changes in moisture content, the side moldings are attached a little differently than the front molding. Rather than glue them along their entire length (in lime, the seasonal movement of the sides would likely fracture the glue joint), apply glue only to the first two or three inches of the front end. then use old-fashioned or finishing nails (same as you did for the front) lo secure ihe rest of the side molding. Nails are a good choice here, since they tend to flex a little. That allows the sides to move, yet the molding stays securely attached.

The Doors

Measure the opening of your case to determine the actual size of the two doors. Once the size is determined, cut the stiles (Ml and rails tN| to length from stock measuring V-i in. thick by 2V-I in. wide. Use the router table to cut the '/J in. wide by '/2 in. deep by 23/4 in. long mortise in each stile. Then, use the table saw and dado head to cut the '/■) in. wide by l/l in. long tenon on each end of the rails (Fig. 6).

Check the tenons for a g<xid tit in the mortises and. if all looks okay, sand ihe pans through 220-grit. Add glue to the mortises and tenons, then assemble using bar or pipe clamps to apply pressure to

J;inuary/Fcbruur% 1994