Woodworker's Journal 1994-18-1, страница 62

Woodworker

ihe joints, Make sure the panels are square and flat before setling aside to dry.

Cut the door hinge mortises, then add the d(X>r hinges i T) and temporarily hang the two doors If all fits to your satisfaction. trim the door slat stock to length t remember the slat was made earlier) and glue it lo the right side door (Fig, 6). Use a chisel to bevel each end as shown.

Although the slat isn't mandatory, we added it because old-time cabinets like this often incorporated them to cover the space between the doors. While it probably was used to discourage insects and the like, we suspeel it also served at times to cover up any uneveness along the edges where the doors met. If you add the slal. though, keep in mind that the right door must be opened before you can open the left one.

Make ihe Adjustable Shelf

From the stock that was glued-up earlier, cui the adjustable shelf (K) 10 lit inside the case, allow ing a little space (about '/|6 in.) on each end. Also, cut the adjustable shelf pins(L) to 7/x in. lengths using 'At in. diameter dowel stock.

Marbletze the Top

The lop, which had been temporarily added to the case, can now be removed. Give the lop a thorough sanding, finishing with 220-grit.

Complete instructions for marbleizing come w ith the Plaid kit (see Sources), so we won't cover the procedure here. Everything you need to do ihe job is included—sponge, veining feather, sponge brush, various colors and solutions, and an instruction booklet. You'll be able to cover about 12 square feel.

We found it rather easy to do. although the last step (applying ihe "veins" using the feather) was a bit tricky. We didn't like the way the veins looked, so we started over again and were much happier the second lime around. (We neglected to follow the advice we faithfully give our readers: When working wiih an unfamtlar finish, first appl\ it to a small test piece to get a feel for the process, and to preview ihe final look.)

Although the kil contains enough colors lo do bolh the tipper and low er surfaces of the top. we chose lo do only the exposed surfaces—ihe entire upper surface, ihe four edges, and aboul 2 in. around the lower surface. When finished

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Sources

Marbleizing Kit

We used a marbleizing kil sold by PlakJ Enterprises. PO. So* 7600, Norcross. GA 300917600. tel. {404) 923-8200. It's their Faux Finish Marbleizing Kil, Serpentine Collection, in (tie color ivory. Write or call Plaid for the name of their nearest retailer.

Tin

The pewter-tone tin panels we used for this project are available from Country Accents. P.O. Box 437, Montoursville. PA 17754, tel. (717) 478-4127. Three options are available:

1. Two 12 in. by 24 in. blank panels, an 8 in by 10 in. practice piece, and a full-size pattern for $14.20 postpaid.

2. Two 12 in. by 24 In. blank panels, an 8 in. by 10 in. practice piece, a point punch (to make the round holes), a 7/ie in. chisel punch (to make the elongateo holes) and a full-size pattern for $29.45 postpaid.

3. Two 12 in. by 24 in. panels pre-punched to the pattern shown tor $59.80 postpaid.

Old-Fashioned Nails

Decorative 1 in. long (2d) dout nails can be ordered from the Tremont Nail Company, P.O. Box 111. Wareham. MA 02571; tel. (508| 2950038. Order their part number "CT-2*. Current price for one pound (approximately 346 nails) is $11.75 postpaid.

Router Bits

Both the half-radius bull nose bit. and the cove and bead bit are available from Eagle America. P.O. Box 1099. Chardon. OH 44024: tel. 1-800-872-2511. For the bullnose bit (Vz in. diameter shank) order part no. 161 -1205; current price $39.99 each, For the cove and bead bit (V2 in. diameter shank) order part no. 1712605: current price $32.99 each, Orders under $100, ado $5.75 for shipping and handling.

marbleizing. sei the lop aside to dry

Finish The Case and Door Frames

Final sand all the case parts (except the marbleized top) and also ihe two door frames. Sand through 220-grit. Once sanded, we applied tw o coats of Minwax Purtian Pine Wood Finish. When dry. two coats of orange shellac were added. Also, at this time, add a couple of coals of a gloss water-based polymethane finish to Ihe marbleized lop.

Punch the Tin

Before you can stari punching the tin panels (O), you'll need to make a paper template of the entire pattern. (As noted

in Sources, a full-size paper template is included if you purchase ihe blank panels, i Most any paper w ill do—as long as it's at least as long and w ide as the tin. Should you not have an> large sheets of paper, simply tape together a few sheets of 81/2 in. by 11 in, typing paper. Now, using ihe full-size quarter-section provided. transfer the entire pattern lo the paper template.

Tape the template to ihe tin blank, then place the blank on a backing board and clamp il to your workbench. Any sort of scrap wiiod will do as a backing board. If you choose not to purchase the punching tools, we found that a 16 penny nail works pretty well for punching ihe '/ifi in. diameter round holes. An old chisel or screwdriver that's ground lo shape can punch the elongated holes.

Once the two panels are punched, lack them to ihe front of the door frames by driving a small brad in each corner. Before driving the brads, though, bore a pilol hole for each one.

Add the Door Molding

The slile molding (P) and rail molding (Q> are a commercial molding sold by most lumberyards. It is generally referred to as "screen" or "screen door" molding, and most lumberyards will order it for you if it's not a stock item.

Cui the molding to length, inhering ihe ends. As shown in the Sectional View, the molding should overlap the lin by about '/r in. all around.

We painted Ihe molding black, as we fell lhat color looked good with the pewter-tone lin. If you opl lo paini the molding, now is the time to do il. as it gets a bil fussy after it's attached.

Once painted, ihe molding is simply lacked in place over the lin panels. To reduce chances of splitting the molding, be sure to bore pilot holes before driving ihe lacks. A daub of black paini w ill cover the nail head.

Final Details

The door knobs (Si we used are of a Shaker style, but just aboul any hardware-store variety V-t in. diameter wooden knob w ill do. We applied black paint lo the knobs before attaching them lo ihe doors.

Remount the doors and the top. and add the two magnetic catches (U I. Install ihe shelf pins and the adjustable shelf lo complete ihe projeci. £3)

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